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Hi, on my VW polo match 60 9n3 1.2 2010, I've been having this noise, don't know how to explain it but it sounds the same as if you put your bottom lip on your top teeth and blow, not sure if you'd call it a grinding noise or not. 

So i decided to replace the front pads today, they still had some wear left on them though. 

Now with new pads fitted I'm still getting the same noise when I'm braking. The discs seem to be okay, has a slight lip on them as most cars do. If anyone has any ideas to how to make this noise go away? 

 

Also I've been having my handbrake sticking on for the past few days, I think it's due to the freezing temperatures we've been having, but every morning when I first get into the car, I take off the handbrake and it's stuck on, it frees itself as soon as I start driving and it's fine for the rest of the day until the morning then it gets stuck on again. I've never worked on handbrakes before but guessing it might be a simple fix.

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  • Is the noise definitely from the front or the back?   If you are not sure go for a spin and apply the handbrake whilst moving and see if the noise returns,That should help you to identify if

  • If it's a chain driven engine then make sure you don't leave it in a gear which could result in the engine turning backwards if the handbrake doesn't hold.  Can empty the tensioner of oil and lead to

  • Yes.   There are various kits available for fixing this, it's an odd thread (M9x 1.25) on the 256mm disc set-up;  is that what yours is? Some of these cars have 239mm discs, it's different

Is the noise definitely from the front or the back?

 

If you are not sure go for a spin and apply the handbrake whilst moving and see if the noise returns,That should help you to identify if it’s front or back.

 

Is it drums or discs on the rear?
 

My MK2 Breadvan has drums and I had noisy brakes, more like a low growl. I found that brake fluid from a leaking wheel cylinder had got onto the shoes, making the brakes noisy.Also excessive brake dust can do the same, however this is only on drums, you won’t get that issue with discs.

 

it maybe you have the beginnings of a sticking handbrake mechanism.

 

Best thing with that is to Jack the car up after it’s been stood a while with the handbrake on, then release it and see if each wheel is binding.They should both turn with ease.

 

The alternative is to go for a normal drive then touch each drum/ disc with a finger(if you can) and see if one is hotter than the other. Be careful doing this though, as discs/drums can get very hot, so you don’t want to burn your fingers!

 

 

 

 

 

  • Author

Thanks for your advice, it's definitely coming from the front, it's drums on the back of my car. 

I do park on a slight hill so if I just take the handbrake off it should just roll backwards, I always leave it in gear when parked up but decided to leave the handbrake off over night and it was fine doing this. I'll try you are advice thanks. 

 

Do you think if I put new discs on the front it'll stop the noise?

Or could it be something else causing it, it don't sound like a growl, it sounds more like a sanding paper touching a spinning disc, it's when I apply the brake to slow down.

Thanks again.

  • Author

Sorry I got it wrong, its a 2009 reg, not 2010.

If it's a chain driven engine then make sure you don't leave it in a gear which could result in the engine turning backwards if the handbrake doesn't hold.  Can empty the tensioner of oil and lead to chain jumping next time it's started.

 

  • Author

Thanks for that info Pete, I've not heard about that before, by a chain driven engine, do you mean a timing chain? Mines a timing chain one.

  • Author

Now I've got new pads and brakes on but I must of put the bottom bolt in at a slight angle and it's ripped the thread out of the thing the bolt goes into. 

Is there anywhere that I can go that would re-thread it? 

It's definitely not damaged the bolt, the thing it bolts to I think is made of cast iron.

1 hour ago, RoyTheBoy said:

Thanks for that info Pete, I've not heard about that before, by a chain driven engine, do you mean a timing chain? Mines a timing chain one.

Yes.

 

1 hour ago, RoyTheBoy said:

Now I've got new pads and brakes on but I must of put the bottom bolt in at a slight angle and it's ripped the thread out of the thing the bolt goes into. 

Is there anywhere that I can go that would re-thread it? 

It's definitely not damaged the bolt, the thing it bolts to I think is made of cast iron.

There are various kits available for fixing this, it's an odd thread (M9x 1.25) on the 256mm disc set-up;  is that what yours is? Some of these cars have 239mm discs, it's different on those.

 

The simplest fix is a threaded bush that you push into the hole after drilling out the thread, I'll see if i can track down a link.

  • Author

Is this easy to do, how do you push it in once it's been drilled out? This does seem like a great idea thanks Pete, I was also thinking of something similar, if I get a nut that fits the bolt, then drill only part way through only enough for it to catch and hold the nut in place but was thinking if it'll weaken it. I've been told it's called a hub carrier that the threads are damaged in. I have no idea of the disc size, I'll have to find out or call the parts shop that I use to find out.

Haven't done the job myself so can't advise on the details, but probably just something like a G-clamp to push it in? 

May be some instructions with the kit or in the listing?

 

First thing is to check your disc size.  

  • Author

I will do thanks, I'm hoping it'll be on the box, I'll check tomorrow thanks again, just looked on YouTube and think I'll give it a go but he removed his hub carrier from the car, I'll see if can do mine while still on the car. 

Took it to a local garage and he told me that the hub carrier is a dealer part only and there's no after market hub carriers made for my car, he called vw dealer up but no answer then said they must all be on furlough but gave my contact details to another garage that can get it in for me, but my parts shop told me he has none in stock and he can order one in for me, which would obviously be an after market one as its much cheaper.

The garage told me that the bearings can break easily when removing the hub cap, my hub cap looks like a big T socket shape.

It's not easy to trust garages that's why I prefer to fix it myself.

 

  • Author

Just an update, the M9 repair kit arrived in the post today and managed to put in on and now it's all fixed, thanks again everyone and Pete, I'm not sure if it's better than using the helicoil. The auto stores stock all of them apart from the M9 lol so had to get it delivered.

Thanks again.

 

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