Any one know how the fusebox multiplug T32 unplugs?

 

Think there are 2 lugs on the side. Squeeze or prise apart.

 

Seeing a kiloohm from yellow dip headlight wire to fuse clip the other side. 

 

clip on the left

Disconnected battery earth. Squeeze the clips and that disengages the lugs.

Carefully rock left and right, bit of screwdriver blade leverage.

 

And oh dear. Look at socket 15 of 32. Yeah, that's not going conduct very well.

I wonder whether 15and 16 are common? Could rescue by new terminal in 16...

Ohmmeter on the blades at back of fusebox says they are joined.

Chapter 12 supplement.

 

Looking at the wiring diagram Fig 12.62 page 240 in Haynes, 13 and 15 are joined, if you have dim-dip circuit after August 1986 in UK, connects through to pin7 (of 8) in engine bay which has black on yellow wire.

 

My car is LHD German 1984 and has black stripe on yellow wire from pin 7 on engine side of fuse box.

 

On fig 12.57 for 1985 onwards there's white stripe on yellow from pin 7. 13 and 15 are joined. "ge/ws"

 

 

Nearly same in fig9.24 page 155. for 1983 and 1984 C CL GL and Coupe models. Black stripe on yellow. in track 80  "ge/sw"

 

Ah, I wonder if T32/16 is the other side of the fuse from T32/15...? 

Edited 21 February, 20215 yr by dvderlm

Does black stripe on yellow mean dimdip circuit?

 

Never seen a dim dip resistor near the fusebox or battery in my car. 

I remember on a Golf mk2. Green wirewound cylinder thingy.

 

 

 

 

dim dip resistor is up near the fusebox on my 88 polo (or was)

In the Autodata wiring, Yellow/Black is Left Headlight from fuse#7 and the Right headlight is just Yellow no stripe from fuse 8 

Thanks Nige.

 

Can't work out how it could have melted the area around terminal 15 of the multiplug without blowing a fuse.

 

Might have been like that for decades I suppose. Then oxidised/rusted with not being used? Wrong fuse rating sometime in its life with a short circuited or overpower bulb? I've not used anything over 55Watt bulb. I suppose both dip and main filaments burn when you flash the lights, but main beam is white wire and different terminal (5 and 6).

 

Single blade connector can do 16amps I think. That's 220 watts at 13.8volts. 

 

There should only be enough current flowing to operate relays nowadays since I fit an upgraded headlight loom in 2018. Pretty sure that is all correctly wired.

Last time I lost dipped headlights I replaced the original stalks (dip or main switch is in lower part of the assembly wiper stalk, but moved by upper part indicator stalk) and the X-relief relay.

Just a thought, have the relays got back EMF protection diodes across the coil ? as if that went short circuit the current draw would go crazy (but might not blow the fuse) and if that connector was in poor condition it would be the weakest point and heat up ??

22 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Thanks Nige.

 

Can't work out how it could have melted the area around terminal 15 of the multiplug without blowing a fuse.

A loose connection causes high resistance in a circuit, which in turn creates heat.If the fuse is the correct rating, hasn’t blown and you’ve  not overdone it with the lamp wattages, I’d guess this is the most likely cause.

 

If they are spade connections it might have spread slightly, especially if they have been removed and refitted a few times, or it could even  have occurred at assembly in the factory, when it was all put together.

 

 

Edited 23 February, 20215 yr by mk2tastic

The female connector side of 15 is definitely loose connection now.

State of the roads around here the wire to it probably waggles around over bumps.

 

I've not touched that multi-way plug in the many years I've owned the car.

 

I ran extra low down fogs when I had a front spoiler. I'm sure I disconnected the centre fogs whose 2 way connectors were rusted to pieces. They were on the foglight circuit anyway. 

 

Cleaned connector with a needle file, but it feels very fragile at terminal 15. I suppose once melted a bit there's nothing really solid to tension the finger springy bits against the inserted blade, so it will get hot and melt more.

Is it possible to run  another wire in from the fuse box and ‘bypass’ the dodgy connector, or even remove both wires to either side of the fuse and install a separate standalone fuse for the circuit?
 

I’ve never  had mine in bits, so I don’t know if this is feasible, you’ll have to forgive me if I’m talking cobblers.😀

Edited 24 February, 20215 yr by mk2tastic

you can buy the crimp terminals ...if the housing is beyond repair then depin and swap on a replacement from a scrap car

 

half way down this page

http://polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Modular_Fuse_and_Relay_System.html?fbclid=IwAR2alB4atZ8q_adCsYXMB0qTPRkbOm2fH-r1Gk0uU4xjFw26giugff8DVLQ

 

Edited 24 February, 20215 yr by steveo3002

 

Thanks. I think the terminal looks most like this 3-2050 same as Vehicle Wiring Products do. But I'm going to try a plain 6.3mm female blade connector first on its own just to make sure the fuse box itself is in order.

 

Not seen a Polo in a scrappy in ages.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Volkswagen-Flat-Contact-Housing-32-Pin-NOS-VW-Clasico-Jetta-867972999E-/202641755615 

Ah, awesome! Thanks. Ordered one.  Hope it's below EU import duty threshold as from Latvia.

 

Think moving connections over is going to challenge my patience in that awkward space, not to mention my colour insensitivity in poor light.

 

Might be clocks out job too as the wires at LHD steering column appear to head right to centre of the car then back left to fusebox again (I assume so production line could fit RHD dash when required).

 

 

 

dont forget one of these

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-Quality-VW-Audi-Volkswagen-VAG-Terminal-Block-Removing-Hand-Tool-3932/291830872821?hash=item43f279baf5:g:YckAAOSwaB5Xme1a

 

Thanks, Steveo. I had no idea there was such a tool!

 

I was going to try needle pliers, jeweller's screwdriver, fine drill bit, hacksaw blade, the Swiss army knife attachment for taking stone out of a horse's hoof, toothbrush, hatpin, Dremel - no I'm lying. I did not know how I to release the good terminals.

 

Was thinking just cut all the wires and re-pin. 

 

This is the set I use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Tools-Toyota-Mercedes-Porsche-Plug-Type-Electrical-Terminal-Tools/181887604016?hash=item2a59589530:g:BdgAAOSwuTxWCqpI as there are different sized contacts on different connectors 

or a set like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11x-Car-Terminal-Remover-Tool-Wiring-Connector-Extractor-Puller-Release-Pin-HQ9Q/184641572913?hash=item2afd7ed031:g:R5YAAOSwjZJZ9BzD

need some proper crimpers too ideally

I measured the resistance inside fusebox and all is good.

 

There is no multiway plug connection to terminal 16 and even if there was the blade goes to the other side of the fuse.

 

So, I've done the temporary repair. Blade connector should carry 15 to 20amps.

I drilled out the old female pin 15. Pulled yellow wire through, then soldered and crimped on a 6.3mm female blade connector

 

and made sure it will fit snug in the housing using needle files.

 

 

Pulled the blade connector out again and placed it on fusebox blade 15. Refit the multiway plug over the fitted connector until the lugs engaged.

 

Conductance test is good. 

I’d be proud of that repair, if I’d done it myself.😀

 

If it’s tight on the fuse box connection it should last years.

 

 

 

 

Feels like a bodge, but a safe bodge.

I'll fit the dash back together and try the lights before I celebrate. 

 

If it lasts another 36 years that would be good.