My MK2 Breadvan has the usual rusty fuel filler neck. It's hard to really tell how bad it is - might try and get it on a pair of ramps and have a better look. But in general what do you think about how bad it has to get before replacing?

 

The rest of the tank itself doesn't look bad at the moment - I've no idea if it's original. It's only really in the arch where it's looking grotty - but I'm scared to go cleaning / prodding the worst area in case it falls apart! 

 

No leaks detected visually or by smell so far and I recently brimmed it. Also I've got an MOT upcoming - at what point would it class as a failure?

 

If I do change the tank I think I'll get a garage to do it - I do a lot myself but I think it'll be a challenge on my driveway. How many hours labour do you reckon for this?

 

Sorry a lot of questions but I keep coming back because the advice on here has been fantastic - hopefully I can return the favour one day!

Edited 7 March, 20224 yr by HeckOfASteil

Oh and are there any temporary bodges that would be at all worthwhile if it does start leaking?

 

I'm guessing no quick fix is really worth bothering with. I did wonder if a rubber tube could be inserted into the filler neck but seems quite a sketchy thing to do. Maybe a coat of hammerite or some sort of paint on the areas I can get to would slow it down?

will start to smell when its getting near leaking

 

if its a car you want to keep just replace it theyre not that hard to do or expensive

 

id strongly suggest if you do get a new tank to sand the filler neck and apply some good rust paint to it , i use epoxy primer 

 

id guess it ought to be 2 hrs labour at a garage ...theyre not that bad to diy   

You’ll know when it’s starting to go as you’ll get the telltale whiff of petrol every time you get near the car.

 

I’ve repaired the neck quite successfully by using Plastic Padding Leakfix (Teroson UP120), but it depends on getting it prepared well, with the area clean and free of any rust. In many cases the hole will appear in an inaccessible place, meaning tank removal is required to repair it properly.

 

The tank I have fitted now has been repaired this way, but it was removed anyway as  I was carrying out some welding on the chassis in close proximity to the tank.  The hole was found when cleaning up the neck prior to refitting but otherwise it was in a good condition.I also repainted the tank with thick coats of Hammerite, particularly the neck area.

 

The worst part of the job of removing the tank is getting the large breather pipe off the neck connector.You also have to get the rear of the car up high enough to navigate the tank neck past the rear axle beam mounting. 

 

As Steveo3002 says the tanks are relatively cheap, so if you are faced with removing a tank for repair it might be a better idea to renew it, especially if the old tank is showing signs of heavy corrosion. Once you start at de-rusting it you’d likely end up with something that resembles a sieve.

Edited 7 March, 20224 yr by mk2tastic

I tried JBWeld which held for a while, but the neck was amazingly thin at rust location, so bent while refitting tank.

Tried very flexible filler hose that eventually wore and tore.

(I do have 42 litre tank in early mk2 36 litre space)

 

I ended up using this between top and bottom of the filler neck with some really strong wire pipe clamps. I think diameter is correct, but do measure.

 

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/gates-90-degree-45mm-id-fuel-fill-hose

 

It's been through MOT a few times since no problem.