Hi guys I’m doing a second rebuild of my mk2 HK 1.3 mech head engine. It’s at about 106k miles or so. 
I did a previous top end rebuild and mod at about 80k. GK cam, deepened the piston slots to take the extra cam lift, heavy porting and overhauled the valves. But I never changed the springs. I have other mods too to suit.

 

I think I’ve miffed the head gasket now. I think cyl 4 has been flooded a lot. Pulled the engine for the sake of it. Have it on the bench now…

 

I’ve bought loads of gear, all gaskets and seals. But also some rings and conrod bearings. I’ll be pulling the head tomorrow so I can see how things look.

 

questions - 

1. If the bore looks fine should I even bother the faff of doing the rings. I am interested in improving the overall cylinder health balance and compression but not in opening a can of worms. It’s not burning oil i believe, and a compression test a while ago was reasonable, but maybe low overall.

2. If I take of the rod caps do I need to replace those bearings if the original vw ones are fine? Also do I need to replace the conrod bolts if so?

I would be planning on leaving the crank in place and not touching the main bearings or bolts. 

 

3. valve springs. I’m interested in putting in heavier springs, or doubles in hopes they would work better with the GK cam. Can anyone direct me on some simple uprated ones? I heard golf mk1 may fit. Are they a direct replacement? Such as these - https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/wc109at10109600k-autotech-valve-spring-set-heavy-duty-8v.html

 

4. For if I do go ahead with rings - Can I have some opinions on rehoning method such as which grits etc. I have access to a beaded drill honing thingy.

Also the best recommended run in procedure. Again I would happily avoid all this if that’s a better idea.

 

Cheers!

ring maker will have info on what grit to use , i re ringed my engine and its an oil burner now , tread carefully

I just pulled the head tonight. 4th cyl was flooded, leaking also marginally into the 3rd. Otherwise the bores looks fine and I can barely even see, let alone feel any step at the top. It’s only a visible line in some vague places but otherwise just a feint change in texture. Head and block seem totally straight still. I think the head bolt just came loose. I think I’ll leave the bottom end alone for now.

 

cyl 2 and 3 as pictured was a visible line but couldn’t be felt with a fingernail atall.

 

Answers about the springs would still be really great if anyone can. 
 

cheers

Run in.

 

I used running-in oil (from Opie) and gave it 20 mins at 2000+ rpm once I got it to start and idle with no leaks.

Then changed to normal semisynth 10w40 at 500miles after much load variation and usually quite hard driving, but I think I stayed below 4000rpm during that.

I also put neodymium magnets on each oil filter as the rings are ferrous, even if pistons aren't.

 

dont know about valve springs but when i got my shrick cams , got an extra 1.5mm lift; just decided to buy a new set of OEM springs and hoped they wouldn't bind lol. think uprated springs work out to expensive because you sometimes need spring upper and lower holder plates.