VW Polo 2007 1.4cc Auto 9N Engine Code BKY

Car wouldn't start one day so I did basic checks, removing fuel pipe to injectors and throttle body. Petrol to injectors but not throttle body (not sure if this is correct on ignition only). Then disconnected battery and left for a week (other issues arose) and then reconnecting battery it would start but only tick over. If trying to increase revs, it would just refuse and seem like it was going to die, throttle off back to tick. About 6 months ago it was running poorly but I did a thorough throttle body clean (removed and cleaned) and it had been running fine so I don't think it's that.

 

I did check the FAQ and searched but nothing quiet similar.

 

Appreciate any thoughts.

 

Thanks

It is correct that no fuel should go to the throttle body/inlet manifold below.

 

The various pipe connections to there are for vacuum to brake servo, recycled vapour from the oil trap, and fuel tank vapours via the EVAP purge valve near the expansion tank.

 

Do you have anything with which to scan it for fault codes?

 

How far are you from Abingdon, Oxfordshire, approx?

 

 

Pete1 many thanks for your response.

 

Yes I have a simple OBD2 reader which I'll hook up tomorrow and see what if anything comes up. I live in Esher which according to Google maps is 64 miles from Abingdon.

 

 

 

Code coming up as pending is P0116 which according to my reader is Engine Coolant Temperature Range. I get confused with the Mark's. Its a 2007 car which is a Mark 4 or 7?

 

Any ideas?

Edited 31 March, 20233 yr by Coupe

This forum has a slightly confusing way of categorising the marks, it's basically both of those! 😁

Might be worth trying another coolant temp sensor, or trying to start the engine with it disconnected to see if it works better?

Ordered a new sensor and I see if that helps.

 

Many thanks.

Replaced coolant sensor and cleared error codes now runs much better although there is still a slight hesitancy at times. Could it be wrong mixture still in engine and/or the ECU catching up and I need to do a few more miles? I'll run it a bit more and check the codes again later.

 

Surprised the coolant sensor could make that much difference!

Well replaced Thermostat as engine temperature gauge stayed low - now fine. Removed and cleaned fuel injectors and removed and cleaned and re-gapped spark plugs to 1mm. although non were far out.

 

Made no difference to the running. Starts drives but there is the occasional stutter. No error codes showing or pending on simple OBD2 reader. Perhaps should have ohm tested the coil packs so does anyone know the correct ohm range to test on the coil packs or if I should check anything else.

 

Thanks

If ECU thought it was cold then would be running richer and the fuel fumes carbon canister would not have been venting into inlet. Maybe the stutter is the system occasionally venting this aand will clear itself.

 

 

How sooty were the spark plugs?
Fr7hpp33 bosch apparently last 60000km (40000 miles) and 1.0mm gapped for BKY.

Were you bending earth electrode closer? Time to replace?

Spark Plug 0 242 236 566 BOSCH M 14 x 1,25, Spanner size: 16 cheap in online shop in original quality (sparepartstore24.co.uk)

Thanks for responding - plugs were a bit sooty so I cleaned up and checked the gaps. No harm in replacing so I've ordered a set. Wait for them and see what happens.

Replaced plugs and the camshaft sensor and although started a bit rough seems to have settled down. Will give it a longer run to fully check.

I was trying to test the ignition coil packs with a multimeter. Does anyone know the values across which pins. The coil pack terminals are numbered 1 to 4.  It would be useful to have the correct ohm reading range for any pin combinations if anyone has it.

 

Thanks 

I've got the resistance  number for a different engine that I think uses the same coil packs:

370-410 Ohms (at approx. 20°C), measure between pins 2 and 3. I seem to remember this is an error in the Skoda workshop manual, and should really be between 1 and 4, try both and you'll soon see.

 

The workshop manual that covers the BKY engine didn't seem to have the same test suggested, lots of stuff involving dedicated test equipment instead.

They usually throw fault codes when faulty, or worsen to the point of obvious 'cylinder shut off' in my experience, when failing.

 

Edited 28 April, 20233 yr by Pete1

Thanks for this. On a spare one I have out I get 387.6 Ohms between 1&4 and 16.29 Ohms between 2&3. I agree re fault codes more likely to show first. Funny thing is there's 4 different manufacturer coils on my car, Bosch, Lucas and Indesit (or something like) and an unbranded one but the readings are similar (but not quiet the same). 

My 2003 BBY engine has only had one fail in 20 years, last autumn if I remember right.

Other 3 all have date codes consistent with factory build date. I carry a spare onboard, and a handheld scan tool in glove box.

Engine ran but still stuttered a bit then the engine light came on and gave me no3 cylinder coil failure. So this time replaced all coil packs for Bosch (just under £100) cancelled light and all seems well. Wonder if there's a point where ignition coil is not fully working but not quiet bad enough to create engine light fault?