Hi

 

Got quite some play and noise in the inner UV on the shorter-side driveshaft.   Planning to change it on Mayday bank hol.
1 end hub side + nut,  2nd side flange with 6 splinebolts (to gearbox)

Decided just to make the job cleaner and got a new complete set, incl. 6splinebolts, rubber seal, grease,....   rather than just change the U joint itself.
Bought the MEYLE, ...exactly like this:   https://www.ic24.uk/products/g0yddb-drive-shaft-100-498-0724

 

Car is:  2014 Polo V 6R 1.2tsi 16v  (timing belt, not chain)  66kw/90hp  CJZC engine 

 

1   Just would like to ask someone kind enough for the Nm torques for the 6 splinebolts  and hub nut     (1st + 2nd stages)  ?

2   Been told its just a simple replace (3 lower arm 19mm nuts, balljoint, swing-out-the-way, hub nut, 6 splinebolts )  Plop old out and new in !
      i.e.  no worries about trans oil leakage/replace.  Gbox will not leak.    Was I told right ?

 

 

Many thx for Nm + confirmation of job procedure.

Phil

 

 

Generally for VW

• M8 spline bolts 40Nm
• M10 spline bolts 70Nm

(I've seen 80Nm for Golf VR6)

 

12point hub nut. I'd loosen that first, with wheels on the (flat) ground and car in gear, handbrake on.

 

Mostly, I use an axle stand, a short extension bar, 30mm 12point socket and a breaker bar (at least 24"), that I stamp on.

 

Use a new hub nut.

 

With wheels back on the ground...

210Nm in one go 

 

Or,

200Nm, loosen 1 turn, 50Nm, then 60° angle (equals 2 points of the nut).

Hi.  Thx very much for confirmation re: torque of bolts + nut.

 

Am I right that the gearbox is "sealed" so I won't need to worry about trans oil leakage when I remove the shorter driveshaft ?  (just grease from the old CV joint!)

12 minutes ago, jezisvole said:

Am I right that the gearbox is "sealed" so I won't need to worry about trans oil leakage when I remove the shorter driveshaft ?  (just grease from the old CV joint!)

Yep.

 

Be careful with the spline tool, it's important to make sure it's fully engaged down to the bottom of the head recesses, before trying to undo. The recesses tend to be mucky and hard to see, so tap the tool plus extension combo with a hammer until you hear it bottom out. 

You really don't want to be damaging or rounding off anything.

superduper.  thx.   was planning to take my time and give them a few sprays with some WD39.5 equiv. and brass brush any rust off, in order to get right to the bottom. 🙂

 

(no tradenames mentioned)

🙂  ... just to thank those who helped with info.   The driveshaft replace was fairly painless.  Easy all the way, until the rust held the old driveshaft to the gearbox (in a small 5mm recess)   6 splinebolts no prob.   This rust needed persuading to let go of the past with spray, dull chisel, hammering and time.    Then easy to finish.

when you are tightening 

• the outers, a screwdriver into vented disc braced against caliper, or put wheel bolts back in the in the hub and a long bar between 2 bolts and rotate against the ground. 
• the inners you can do that too, but, an assistant to apply the brakes when instructed is really useful (though good aerobic exercise on your own crawling under, climbing out, adjusting repeat)

 

 

Though 'finished' sounds like you've done it already.

Enjoy your Polo!

did both of these .... 😉

 

ribs were a bit iffy the next day.   But 54 is old enough to expect some aches !