I'm going to be doing this soon and i'm not quite sure about the nitty gritty, when i rebuilt the head i fitted the cam with the head off.

The biggest decision i have to make is whether or not to torque the new cam down with the bottom end at TDC, or TDC minus 90deg, so piston crossover point. The risk is that with the engine at TDC i accidentally crack open No.4 exhaust valve and it touches the piston. No.1 lobes should be well clear.

I think, perhaps someone can clarify this, that the back plastic cambelt cover with the timing arrow on it has to be off to get the cam in place. This makes it even more tricky to keep the cam at TDC as you are missing the vital reference point. Can anyone describe the process in basic stages just so i know what has to be done and when? The details can be omitted, i know the dizzy has to come off and how to refit the rocker cover etc.

Thanks.

Oh yeah, and i'm fitting new hydraulic lifters too, how the hell do you fill them with oil prior to fitting?

Edited 10 January Jan 10 by mr brightside

This is the cam data sheet, how can you access the spring assembly to verify the clearances? It's a standard head never reconditioned, just had the seats reground with paste.

Maybe a syringe?

With head fitted, no camshaft or cambelt, spark plugs removed or disconnected, petrol line clamped, spinning the bottom half of the engine on the starter motor will still pump oil everywhere.

Valves closed as no lobes pushing them.

You could prewarm the oil in the sump with a fan heater.

As for valve springs...

I only know mechy heads, where you can slide a feeler gauge blade between the springs without a rocker arm, and then with one. If pistons are halfway down cylinder and no cambelt you can turn the camshaft as much as you like with lever in the cam pulley. (two M10 bolts in a flat bar)

So having replaced both the cam and the tappets on an intact block, first at tdc use a whizy gun to loosen the cam nut, this way you don't have to take the black plastic off, then slide the cam belt off after you've loosened the water pump and spun it to release the tension, next cam bolt out, then knock off the pulley, undo the caps and cam out, at tdc with the engine not moving the valves wouldn't go far even if they touch a cylinder, next pull the tappets out and slide the new ones in, to fill with oil literally bath of oil and compress the tappets with your fingers, then fit cam, ensuring its at tdc and fit the caps, then the pulley, cambelt on and tighten, then spin engine by hand to ensure clearances listening for strange noises, and ensuring no tight spots, refit rocker cover and turn over with king lead off to ensure nothing untoward, provided everything checks out start it and ensure its sounding healthy before going for a jaunt, if you're still uneasy take the head off.