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damageandy

FAQ mk3/2F Suspension fitting

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damageandy

this is the way i do it with the tools that i have, other will more than likely have different ways to do it using different tools. Let me know if i missed owt as i was still sleepy when writing this! oh and if my grammer is shit i dont care atleast i took the time to try and help people out.

So you got your new lowering kit and wanna get your car slammed!

Ok the fronts are by far the hardest and can pose the most problems.

Try and give everything a a good soak in wd40 beforehand and maybe even go for a quick drive after doin it to try and losen things up.

ok first thing u need to do is losen driveshaft nut, for this u leave car on the ground you need a 30mm socket and usually a massive breaker bar. Once thats lose u can jack the car up and get it on axle stands for saftety.

I then remove the brakes 2 15mm bolts, then tie the brake up to avoid damageing the flexis hose.

remove the tca nut and try and get the arm off. This bit usually causes the most problems

1) spinney ball joint, my way hammer from the bottom, sometimes works or use a trolley jack and a piece of wood and put pressue on the bottom of the tca force the tca in,this usually asways works. If not its hack saw time on that nut.

2) nut comes off but tca arm is stuck fast, u could get a balljoint spliter, not the hamer type as they damage the rubber. I just use some shock treakment with a hammer and then use a pry bar to lever it off, if its stuck fast be carefull not to bend the tca.

Once thats off, remove the bottom balljoint from the antiroll bar onto bottom of the strut, its a nut and bolt 15-17 mm(cant remember which) You then need to lever the joint out. This usually needs two people one to hold the strut up(if on your own try using a jack) and one to lever it off, you need a nice long pry bar for this thats strong (scaff bar will do). I put the bar threw the antiroll bar and againt the gerabox and push down on the bar. This lowers it and and pulls the bare out of the strut.

Remove the nut holding the strut on in the engine bar, pull the struct out of the car.

Now the strut is off the the car u need spring compressors, compress the spring so that the top mount moves up and down feely by a few mm. You then have to move the castle nut, u can get a proper tool for this but i just use molegrips or hammer and chisle. Once this is off you can romve spring etc.

To get the shock out u have to remove the big nut ant the top, give it some wd40 and a few hits with the hammer to shock it then use molegrips, vice or hammer and chisle to get it unscrewing.

When this comes off remove the old shock, be prepared for smelly horrid fluid lol.

then fit the new kit, refitting is refusal of removal

REARS

Remove 17MM nut and bolt thrww the rear axle / shock. Remove top nut, if it starts spinning and u cant clap top if insert, get a molegrips and clamp it inside the arch, as near to the top as u can. U should be able to get it of now. You dont need spring compressors for this.

Fit new kit, if you have problems with it spinning and u are force to use molegrips do it as far up the rod as u can, and use some cloth are the molegrips to avoid damaging it.

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Guest jaycee

you dont need to disturb the bottom end at all i changed my springs at first then later went to gas shocks but all i did was remove the shock from the two bottom bolts where it goes on to the hub assy its much easier you just need to find some one cheap enough to 4 wheel align it afterwards my mate did it for £20 although i did knacker a set of front tyres before fitting the shocks i should have done them at the same time then got it set immediately but you live and learn and when tunning on a budget you dont always have the choice even though it cost more in the end as id already upset the alligment so be warned think about what you want to do and how much money youve got to spend and what end result you want then spend x amount off pounds in 1 go not in little bits then you will save money and if you havnt got the tools for the job but you have all your parts give me a shout and i will happily help any one out hope this helps :D

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Mariojoshi

What the hell are you talking about?

Mk3 front suspension is on struts - you can only remove a shock by undoing the huge nut on top of the strut housing, as damageandy rightly said.

Are you talking about a wishbone setup? Mk3s do not have this!

**Unless you are talking about a mk3 in the way VW do - i.e a mk4 to most of the community on here**

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heartagram
DON'T GIVE OUT DUFF ADVICE. IF YOU DON'T KNOW THE ANSWER THEN DON'T ANSWER - SIMPLE!!!

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Danny Lee

I can verify that this method works beautifully, especially when you take precautions to make the bolts less likely to seize.

WD40 on all of the bolts and nuts concerned (tie rod, ball-joint bolt, so on) - I did this every day for about 4 or 5 days in advance and whilst I can't say whether it contributed for sure, only one thing came close to a stop when we did it, and that was just down to a dodgy part of the thread. Some simple tips I picked up were to use WD40 and a wirebrush on the nuts and threads to help clean things up and remove some of the scabbing near them as you'll find on your car's private parts, you know, down there.

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Guest jaycee

sorry for the mistake i guessed that the polos were all the same in that the shocker bolted up to the hub assy at the bottom with 2 bolts !! i guess not :? yet any one doing a polo 6n should listen to what i have said !! appologys all round !! jamie

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rae
To get the shock out u have to remove the big nut ant the top, give it some wd40 and a few hits with the hammer to shock it then use molegrips, vice or hammer and chisle to get it unscrewing.

When this comes off remove the old shock, be prepared for smelly horrid fluid lol.

then fit the new kit, refitting is refusal of removal

so, quick question... haynes manual says tip the fluid out and clean the insides of the struts.....

what do you say?

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damageandy

pour out any fluid stick shock in, a bit of fluid int gunna hurt owt its only oil after all

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rae
pour out any fluid stick shock in, a bit of fluid int gunna hurt owt its only oil after all

yeh thats what i did. afterall new shockers fitted snugly into the strut, whereas old ones were smaller so needed the oil to be held in.

it drives like a new car now... just bumpier

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skatty_01

For those who can't undo balljoints... If its not coming off at all, smack the underneath of the joint as hard as you can to lock the thread and stop it spinning. If the nut is stuck halfway up the thread, use a hammer type balljoint splitter between the nut itself and the joint, to force it into the 'locked' position. Should be a doddle to wind off after that. Worst case scenario, cut the nut itself off with a hacksaw!

I also struggled to remove the cap that holds the actual shock insert into the strut - tried using a hammer and screwdriver to tap it off but it wasnt coming... £15 bought me a vice, 5 mins with a drill and two bolts later it was mounted to the sideboard in the garage, and it just twisted off dead easy.

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damageandy

i now dont try to undo the steering arm at the strut end, i simply undo the steering arm from the steering rack, which is a 13mm nut n bolt much easier.

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Oily Fingers

Followed this guide and was very helpfull.

i did come ascross one problem that wasnt listed, and that was the shocks spinning while undoin them.

Quick tip ------ If the shocks start to spin whilst undoing the nut in the boot holding the back ones on or the nut holding the fronts on in the engine bay, use a pair of Mole grips on the shaft tightly, and give it ago. May need 2 people for extra easyness. Also if you plan to use the the shocks again, have the mole grips high as possibel on the shock to avoid marking the shaft and doin the seals in.

Edited by Oily Fingers

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type2dub

top tip..........take a 19mm deep socket and weld it into a the ring end of a suitable spanner; drill out the centre of the socket if neccessary to fit an 8mm (i think) socket through to hold the strut still and voila! a strut removal tool, no need for molegrips or potential damage to the shaft.

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Yeti

Or use a swan neck spanner.

The inserts aren't always an 8mm, they can be allen head, threaded, or pretty much anything, depending on who made them.

For the insert caps. A vice is essential, but Stilson's don't always do the job. Heating it up can help, but bear in mind it will probably kill the shock (but then if you're taking it out, chances are it's already gone). A big pair of stilsons is normally sufficient, but every now and then I end up welding an old spanner on top of the cap.

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Scott_GT

having trouble with getting the top bolt off the fronts, Mole grips just aint holding the shock still. Also I'm changing over suspension to another MK3, The rears are done, Were changing shocks , springs and the Struts aswell to make it easier. if i undo the bottom ball joint , drive shalf nut, Steering arm (andys way) and top nut, will the springs come down ok, there not going to shoot down?, will i need to compress them?

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AdamP
having trouble with getting the top bolt off the fronts, Mole grips just aint holding the shock still. Also I'm changing over suspension to another MK3, The rears are done, Were changing shocks , springs and the Struts aswell to make it easier. if i undo the bottom ball joint , drive shalf nut, Steering arm (andys way) and top nut, will the springs come down ok, there not going to shoot down?, will i need to compress them?

Top nut is usually very tricky.

Get hold of an Impact wrench and soak them in penetrating oil.

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Scott_GT
will the springs come down ok, there not going to shoot down?, will i need to compress them?

Yeh waiting for a mate to do that. Were abouts on the steering arm shall i undo the 13 mm bolts. also any one got an asnwer to the quote

Scott

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Scott_GT

Also Fitted rears,Phil J kit. both on the second to last setting. The passenger side seems fine, but when i go some slowping drains or small pot holes,I get a massive bang and sound asif the shock is bottoming out. Passenger side seams fine.

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Guest racingt
Also Fitted rears,Phil J kit. both on the second to last setting. The passenger side seems fine, but when i go some slowping drains or small pot holes,I get a massive bang and sound asif the shock is bottoming out. Passenger side seams fine.

Hi Damageandy - garage recommended we scrap our 1994 1.0 polo, for front dampers and emissions, and handbrake.

Thanks for the guide - we fixed the dampers last week, fixed handbrake and got engine really hot to get past MOT - car will run another year now !!

Job wasn't easy, getting the TCA arm back and line up was a bitch - finally used ratchet strapp underneath to pull everything into line, then bolted straight up - ratchet strap is good £4 from Army surplu - and worked really well - good addition to any toolkit.

Cheers

Phil

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Le catweasel

This is a really good guide, but does anyone have any pictures to go with it?

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Scott_GT

yeh i think pictures same more than words somtimes. I'm adjusting my rears next week so ill be sure to take some snapes.

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mk3_nath

pictures would be awesome please

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AdamP

TBH it's pretty obvious once you start.

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mk3_nath

ok sorry if i sound like a mong but why do you need to loosen the drive shaft nut?

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tobyk

To get the strut off

  • Like 1

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