ok sorry if i sound like a mong but why do you need to loosen the drive shaft nut?

The hub/carrier is in integral part of the strut.

ahh thank you very much

I just wanted to add that a swan neck spanner is usually known as an offset spanner, to undo the top strutt nut and you need a DEEP one which you can get online from Draper for under £6, the shallow one they sell in Halfords wont work.

I just wanted to add that a swan neck spanner is usually known as an offset spanner, to undo the top strutt nut and you need a DEEP one which you can get online from Draper for under £6, the shallow one they sell in Halfords wont work.

Indeed it wont.

I learned the hard way!

I'm in the process of fitting a philj kit, done the backs with no problems. fronts i have removed but am stuck on removing the spring from the strut, there is a weird washer type thing at the bottom of the thread off the shaft, do i need a special tool to remove this ..?

edit: is this the castle nut ?

Edited 3 April, 201016 yr by wizardkilla

i think i am going to do mine at work,have access to a large array of tools including air tools!!!! i am slightly concerned at changing the fronts tho,was advised to get new top caps for the car if i wa going to lower it! is this necessary?

I'm struggling to get the rears off :S

rears are easy but i had to saw off the bolts rusted solid , i hate the fronts

What a mess,no wonder this gets few posts,but i wonder how many people have had a nightmare following it.. I read the first post and shook my head in horror at instructions to undo the driveshaft nut,and stopped there - You're changing the springs and shocks,not stripping the bloody car..

The only things i undo on the front are the wheel bolts, ARB-TCA nut,damper retaining collar,castle nut,and top nut. The top nut comes undone with a swan neck (mine is a Halfords Professional 17/19, also have a Gedore offset spanner works well) with the car on the ground. Castle nut is done with mole grips also with car on ground. ARB-TCA nut only comes off to get enough space to remove the spring and its top plate.

The hub/strut stays fully bolted up,because the ball joint mount stretches,and the steering arm can be a pig. The damper is sent out the top through the top mount hole,allowing removal of the spring from its bottom end.

As for rears,i dont even remove the wheel.

There you go,simples. I acknowledge that the creator was trying to help,but its an FAQ/guide.

If you're meaning the collar that holds the damper, you can do it with the car jacked up and get between the coils in the spring, I usually use a set of plumbers grips, after a couple of taps with a hammer to loosen it.

All i undone on mine was the wheel nuts top mount nut and castle nut. Once the top mounts off the top of the spring the whole shock internals will fit through the hole in the tower, and the gas shocks slip straight back through. Was quite awkward admittedly but it worked. Could have been made easier if i'd removed the track rod end from the strut.