I've been following chuckk yoghurts thread on changing the HG, looks like a hell of a lot of work!

I need to put a new head on my car and I'm not too sure what i will need - don't want to get halfway thorugh and discover I'm missing some tools/parts etc!

As far as i can see it, I'm gona need a torque wrench, headgasket kit, spline tool for removing bolts on the head, full set of spanners and sockets, new cylinder head and bolts.

I'm guessing that i will need to remove all the ancilliaries that get in the way, then remove the rocker cover, unbolt the head from the block, and also remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Once the head is off, i clean the mating surfaces (what with?!), put the new gasket and head on, re-attach manifolds, rocker cover and ancilliaries, and job's a good un.

Will i need to remove the cambelt? Sorry I'm such a noob, only way to learn is to ask questions though!

I've been following chuckk yoghurts thread on changing the HG, looks like a hell of a lot of work!

I need to put a new head on my car and I'm not too sure what i will need - don't want to get halfway thorugh and discover I'm missing some tools/parts etc!

As far as i can see it, I'm gona need a torque wrench, headgasket kit, spline tool for removing bolts on the head, full set of spanners and sockets, new cylinder head and bolts.

I'm guessing that i will need to remove all the ancilliaries that get in the way, then remove the rocker cover, unbolt the head from the block, and also remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds. Once the head is off, i clean the mating surfaces (what with?!), put the new gasket and head on, re-attach manifolds, rocker cover and ancilliaries, and job's a good un.

Will i need to remove the cambelt? Sorry I'm such a noob, only way to learn is to ask questions though!

Hello mate.

I'm only just in front of you I think!

You might wanna think about gaskets for the inlet and exhaust manifolds as well.

The cambelt's gotta come off, you've got to be careful the valves don't hit the cylinders, Haynes is pretty detailed on the subject of setting the timing, and it's what i'm going to be following when the head is finally ready to go back on.

Clean the surfaces with emery cloth wrapped round a flat block of wood and use very fine emery (don't know what grade, but very fine!)

You need dowel pegs to align the head right. My car didn't have any because the engine hadn't been dismantled since the factory, but i'm going to have to make some!

Your tool list includes everything I've used so should be ok. If you have any rusty nuts to undo on the exhaust side of things, use plus gas (as recommended by toby) well in advance of trying to undo them and use sockets with a hexagonal hole rather than the usual 16 sided ones.

Anything else -just ask. I'm glad to pass on my new-found knowledge!

Good luck!

If your cam belt hasn't been done for a while you might aswell change it while your there. Since it'll be half off anyway.

Is that just take old one off and put new one on?

M<ind haynes will answer that, and thanks mr heartygram.

to make the dowel pegs i did this,

when the new bolts arrive get two of the old ones grind the heads off and cut a screw driver slot into the top, thread em into the block and use them as guides, this makes it a million times easier to get the gasket and head in the right place.

Edited 22 June, 200719 yr by polopete

^ Now thats a top tip!!

Sounds pretty damn genius... Never seen an engine with the head off before though - are there specific slots for these guides? Otherwise how do you get them out once its lined up - to bolt the head on?!

Sounds pretty damn genius... Never seen an engine with the head off before though - are there specific slots for these guides? Otherwise how do you get them out once its lined up - to bolt the head on?!

That is genius - well done that man!

Just screw them into two of the bolt holes in the crank-case, slip the cylinder head gently over them. When it's in place use the slots to unscrew them and put in the real bolts. Hurray!!!!

I've not needed dowels,just moved the head about with the bolts screwed in just a few turns - the thread is wider than the bolt shaft and its easy to position it centre. You may need a 6mm allen key for the thermostat housing. The exhaust manifold is 12mm,you may have to hammer a splined 11mm on if they're badly rusted. And replace them in any case. And mark the distributor up first,so you dont loose the timing position. And before you take the cambelt off,line the marks up on crank and cam wheels so the pistons are out the way,as the cam can slip round a bit when you take the belt off.

Just rang, GSF, i got all the headgasket kit (with manifold gaskets), spine tool, head bolts and bolts for the exhaust manifold, cambelt, and a 10 pc allen key set for a whisker over £50!

Wicked.