Blue temp sensor is fine.. Checked the readings on a multi meter and well within the standard perimiters? I'm stumped?

If the ecu's chipped try taking the chip out out and refitting it.

Yeah.. That was the plan tonight! I'm going to clean all the contact points too!!

Very much doubt that is a problem. Have you checked your throttle pot or hall sender then ?

Very much doubt that is a problem. Have you checked your throttle pot or hall sender then ?

I had the problem for ages, replaced loads of stuff, none of which solved the problem. Took the chip out refitted it and had no problems since. I've replaced the ecu and chip since but only for good measures.

i am having the exact same problem, i have taking to the mechanics and the told me its some sort of fueling problem, it happenens to me when the engine is warm not cold, if i rev it as soon as i turn it on from cold its fine, its just when the engines warms up, usually for me about 5 mins after driving, I have replaces one fuel pump and it made no difference, i am about to replace the other fuel pump today to see if that makes any difference.

Edited 23 July, 200719 yr by ryda

i am having the exact same problem, i have taking to the mechanics and the told me its some sort of fueling problem, it happenens to me when the engine is warm not cold, if i rev it as soon as i turn it on from cold its fine, its just when the engines warms up, usually for me about 5 mins after driving, I have replaces one fuel pump and it made no difference, i am about to replace the other fuel pump today to see if that makes any difference.

Cool.. Keep me posted! Which one did you replace first with no difference?

Very much doubt that is a problem. Have you checked your throttle pot or hall sender then ?

I don't know how to? looking for guides on how to check them! Any info would be nice!

Edited 23 July, 200719 yr by MrP

first i replaced the one in the tank and yeaterday the one outside, it has made no differece, the problem is still there, have you had any new ideas. my car only does it once its warm, what about yours, does she do it all the time or only when shes warm.

when i say warm i mean after about 5 mins of driving.

Edited 24 July, 200719 yr by ryda

i changed my distributor compleatly and it made no difference, i have changed all the ht leads. shes had a full service, timing belt looks fine so i am puzzled as well?

Yeah.. Same problem.. after 5/10 mins of driving and usually when I boot it it starts.. I've changed the fuel filter last night and replaced the blue temp sensor for safe keeping as it was only 5 quid from ECP.. Seems a lot better but saying that i've hardly used it since... I'll keep you posted.

i have replaced both of these parts, everthing i seem to do reduces the problem but does not eliminate it.

Edited 24 July, 200719 yr by ryda

You tried the throttle petentiometer? or AFM? Even the Labda probe?

Edited 24 July, 200719 yr by MrP

Also.. Does it do it when the car is stood still or only on movement?

it only does it when the car is moving, not stand still

I have changed the Labda probe but not the petentiometer or AFM

I'd try the throttle pertentiometer.. about 35 quid i think?

Mines stopped doing it now.. Think it was my hall sender.. It was loose and i've tie wrapped it in place.. Not 100% sure tho as i've not really drove it!

where is the hall sender located, what does it do,

where is the hall sender located, what does it do,

its located on top of the dizy, i think it controls the advance

If you changed your dizzy It can't be that as its a part of the dizzy.. Its that black connection on the top side of the dizzy.. Mine had broke so the hall sender was flapping everywhere. I've just tie wrapped mine down and it seems fine.. seems being the word as I'm still not 100% the car is fine!

I dont think that will fix your problem, when i first had this problem, i had a cut in one of the leads i replaced the lead but the problem is still there, it could be the throttle pertentiometer but i am not sure what it does or where its located.

The petentiaometer is located on the TB.. its the little black clip (with a plug) and is next to the adjuster screw, opp side to the airbox.

Maybe the ECU needs resetting? anyone know how to reset it?

mrp have you been able to sort it yet

Mine has seemed to have cleard up now my hall sender is strapped down.. But to be fair I did LOTS of work all at the same time.. This is the list:

oil

oil filter

fuel filter

plugs

Ht leads

dizzy cap

rotor arm

checked dizzy and strapped down loose hall sender

new blue temp sender

coolent flush and renewed

took out ecu and cleaned all contacts

checked all the vacum hoses and fuel lines for splits

Checked fuel pumps

checked throttle petentiometer (unplugged and re-plugged and a major difference happened with it unplugged)

re-adjusted afm and tb.

hope that helps?

The throttle potentiometer is indeed located on the side of the throttle body. It tells the ECU how much you have pushed the gas pedal down (and therefore how open the butterflies are inside the throttle body) The ecu then works out what to do about it... i.e - air fuel ratio mix etc..

(i think)

If it isnt working properly, the ECU can have difficulty knowing how much fuel to provide..

(i think)

how did you re-adjusted afm

and did you check the throttle petentiometer when the engine was runnning, what was the difference

Edited 26 July, 200719 yr by ryda