I'm wanting to change my current set up to have a standalone Lamba sensor to feed my AFR gaugeon my G40 but, my head-stracthing moment is this!! Do I need to feed the heater coil (2 black wires)on the Lamba prob for it to work accurately, I'm thinking that once the exhaust is up to temp that the sensor should work acurately?? Otherwise I'll have to have it on a switching circuit, or could I get away with running the black wires in parrallel with the ECU fed Lamba?? :-?

So if anyone has any ideas please let me know!

why can't you just run the AFR gauge off the normal lambda probe? That way you can also make sure it's doing it's job and not giving off silly readings to the ECU if it's failed. The only reason I can think to do what you want to do is to run a wideband lambda if the system you have doesn't have a narrowband emulation output for the ECU.

The main reason is that AFR readings seem to pulse up and down depending on the RPM, which makes me think its picking up some feedback from the ECU which is kinda distracting. Under load it always displays a static reading, but at part or off/no throttle it jumps up and down??

I've already replaced the sensor back before I had the remap done earlier this year, but it made know differnce, so I now have a spare with the spare hole in the system to fit it.

Edited 18 July, 200719 yr by G-spot

The main reason is that AFR readings seem to pulse up and down depending on the RPM, which makes me think its picking up some feedback from the ECU which is kinda distracting. Under load it always displays a static reading, but at part or off/no throttle it jumps up and down??

It is supposed to do that, its how you the lambda works........

When you are running rich, the lamda tells the ecu to correct, the ecu then corrects back until the lambda tells it that it is running lean.........

yeah that's perfectly normal. It's because of the oscillating air-fuel ratio at idle that the RPM hunts slightly.

It's a narrow band sensor, so it's response curve is almost straight up/down between 1.1 and 0.1V. If the engine goes either way from stoichometric, the guage will hit the endstops. As this happens constantly, your guage jumps around.

That kinda makes sense, glad about that, looks like thats one less job for me to do then!!