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wont idle but drives fine???

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Hi everyone,

i have been having a 'mare with my polo recently. The car was fine till a week ago where it suddenly decided to spit its dummy out.

I was in traffic and noticed that the temp was creeping up a little bit more than it usually does. I got the car home (the temp guage was pointing at 3/4) and anyway found that the thermostat had stuck closed. i changed that part and now it doesnt over heat. (you would think this is an easy job - but it isnt as it wont stop it leaking - however i sussed out how to fix the leaks)

but since this happened it refuses to idle!!

first it was pretty lumpy but now its got to the point where I'm constantly left foot braking when i come to junctions. It doesnt cut out when the auto chokes on - it runs as per normal. till it warms up then it start dying on me when i stop.

So naturally off i go to my local GSF and i get some parts

new plugs and the dizzy cap and the rotor arm,

gave the engine new oil and filters

and gave the little bugger a wash.

stuck some injecter cleaner in the tank

sprayed some hammer drill oil/cleaner into the carb

checked vacuum hoses they seem fine but om changing these next anyway.

non of this hasnt fixed my problem with the idle.

when I'm driving along the car feels very responsive and its refined and feels a bit quicker than it did before! its not drinking anymore fuel than it used to.

earlier today i took it on the motorway for a good run and drove it up to 85mph and i heard a big pop out of the exhaust! i bet it must have spat a flame!!

i was advised by a mate to adjust the ignition advance by a few degrees which didnt change a thing as he thinks its running too rich. however when i push the little flap on top of the carb choke down - it seems to idle fine until you let go

so what have i got here? am i too rich or am i too lean at idle? air leak? someone please help me for god sakes and make the madness stop!

i have had a search and all i can find is people changing carbs for DMTL's which i dont wanna buy new - cant find one second hand!

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ok heres my next plan.

check voltages on all the wires....

replace as many vac hoses as i can

if non of these work ill cheat and give a tweak on the idle mixture setting

heres a blow apart diagram of the 2e2

post-12414-1186141664.gif

post-12414-1186141798_thumb.jpg

btw thanks for the help so far!

no one reply from you long term owners! I've posted the fault up on the mazda club and already theres five people helping me out! this is why i gladly pay the 30 quid a year membership cost.

Is it because I'm not a full member I'm not getting any help? if so then dont worry - ill fix this polo myself and then tell you lot what was wrong with it, just for your future reference. last time i posted a question i didnt get a single reply, so ill not bother paying for membership here theres no clear advantage for doing so.

Edited by ranger2

Not many people know how to fix mk2 carb problems I'm afraid

But sounds like the auto-choke didn't like getting hotter than usual and must have broke and now is stuck on?

Run it up to temp and see if the flap is open or closed on the first stage throttle venturi.

Not many people know how to fix mk2 carb problems I'm afraid

But sounds like the auto-choke didn't like getting hotter than usual and must have broke and now is stuck on?

Run it up to temp and see if the flap is open or closed on the first stage throttle venturi.

the flap is nearly shut when cold and fully open when warm.

yeah sorry about that little rant post. its one of those problems that really do your head in. if you see the diagram above theres many many parts lol. i was on my own with this one and i have spent a few days figuring this one out.

pleased to say I have actually fixed it.

I changed the vac hose on the front of the carb and now it idles perfectly between 750 and 900 rpm. doesnt splutter and as i have serviced it you wont believe how bloody well it runs now!!! I think it must have had a serious split. all makes sense to me now - excess air was getting in and leaning out the mixture.

As good measure I'm off to get some hose tomorrow, think ill change all of these pipes as they are knockin on for 23 years!!

perhaps we should create a knowledge base sticky thread solely on the pierburg carb (if there isnt one already).

Edited by Ranger

The perburg 2e2 is essentially the same as the 2e3 but it has so many more little bits and bobs compared with the 2e3's which are found on small block vw's

There not too hard to figure out once you've taken a good look, i have 3 pierburgs in a box in my garage which helped me alot!

check the rubber mount on the inlet while your at it as they like to perish and split causing the problems you had aswell I've changed quite a lot of them over the years, as for the pierberg best thing to do is throw it in the bin..

Talking about one spitting one's dummy out - some of us work for a living and have a social life,its not a service..

Anyway,if the squareish butterfly in the top of the carb is too far closed at idle,and therefore choking the engine,you might want to loosen the three screws that hold the auto-choke housing on,and give it a slight turn anti-clockwise,just a degree or two,whilst the engine is hot - until that butterfly is fully open. As Hypojam says,the excessive heat has probably knocked the auto-choke out - it works by expansion-spring.

Failing that,go to a motorbike breakers and buy a set of bike carbs :lol:

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