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Steering rack questions (Mk3)

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Apparently my steering arm bushes aren't in great shape, so they'll be in need of changing soon.

My plan is to change to G40 steering arms, as I've still got GT ones on mine. I've already upgraded to G40 track control arms.

Is it the G40 steering arms that are rose jointed, or is it another part? And if I buy new ones (from VW/VAGParts) will they come with new bushes?

Are there any other bushes to change in the steering rack/column? I think my column top bushes are on the way out too. At least that's what I was told after the MOT on Friday.

And, finally, how difficult is it to change all of these bits? DIY job?

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i changed the steering arms a few months ago, easy peasy just make sure the adjustable ones the same length. (getting that end nut off is a pain sometimes... make sure its soaked in penetrating oil and use a balljoint seperator thingy might be nescessary or air tools)

changed track control arms yesterday morning along with the arb bushes etc... also fairly easy as long as everythings cleaned up first.

its the TCA's that are rose jointed

the g40 steering arms are different in the sence that they have dampers with grease in them on the insides, not rubber ones like every other model. i think thats the only difference anyway!!!!

arb bushes are more important than you think, also top mounts can wear out easily.

the vag / gsf TCA's came with all new bushes but youve already changed them, steering arms from GSF came with new ends and inside end bushes too.

none of what youve said is hard work, just time consuming

I was just looking at the 1.0/G40 arms this evening. From what I can see the 1.0 arms have rubber bushes where they attach to the steering rack bracket, the G40 ones on the other hand have rose joint bearings. I can get some photos if you'd like Alex?

P.S If anyone has a price from VAG for each G40 arm I'd be interested in knowing, thinking about buying some this week.

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Pics would be handy, it's only the steering bushes which want changing but I'd stretch to G40 steering arms if necessary. The TCAs are only two years old, so I'm hoping they're still ok!

If I change the steering arms for new ones, will that cover me for all bushes too? Or are there other ones hidden away?

someone explain to me what a 'rose joint' is and i'll clear it up for sure ! lol

i just googled it... i've got some g40 steering arms but they hardly look any different other than the inner bushes?

Edited by rae

I paid about £38 per arm for the new steering arms that are on my G40. That was from VAG-Parts. VW/VAG-Parts only sell the g40 spec ones these days, even if you buy a set for a 1.0 they will have the inner rose-bushes. But GSF still sell the rubber bushed items which are about £25 each if I remember correctly.

If you buy the set from VAG-Parts/VW then you'll get everything you need, including a new track rod end. They come with the bushes pre-fitted as they aren't really replacable, I'm not aware that you can buy them on their own anyway.

Pretty easy to fit as long as you can get the ball joints seperated. If you don't already have one, buy one of these:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...l-joint-remover

The inner joints are just simple 13mm nut & bolt jobbies.

Make sure you get the tracking set once you've done it.

ah so its just those inner joints then!!

that clears that up then

:)

Here is a rose joint, should help people get a better understanding of what they look like:

rosejoint.jpg

It replaces the use of rubber bushes with a bearing. It is a much more direct way of connecting components together and so improves suspension/steering greatly. Transmits a little more vibration too. If you compare the G40 rose joint to the rubber bush method it's clear to see why they are better.

Edited by Tav

Here is a rose joint, should help people get a better understanding of what they look like:

rosejoint.jpg

It replaces the use of rubber bushes with a bearing. It is a much more direct way of connecting components together and so improves suspension/steering greatly. Transmits a little more vibration too. If you compare the G40 rose joint to the rubber bush method it's clear to see why they are better.

well my g40 rose jointed ones didnt look quite like that as they have a rubber boot over them but I'm sure they're similr inside. i paid around 60 a side. the drivers side is an easy fit and comes as one full unit and just bolts on and then your done. the passenger side is adjustable and again comes as one unit although for this side you can just buy the track rod end (you cant for the drivers side). again around 50 quid. i had this one fitted as i had the car set up again and therfore had to be adjusted when fitted. you could just compare the 2 and set it up that way but mie needed doing anyway. by the way i get a bit discount from vw these days so if you dont expect around the 70 quid mark for each side.

Here is a rose joint, should help people get a better understanding of what they look like:

rosejoint.jpg

It replaces the use of rubber bushes with a bearing. It is a much more direct way of connecting components together and so improves suspension/steering greatly. Transmits a little more vibration too. If you compare the G40 rose joint to the rubber bush method it's clear to see why they are better.

the rose joints on the arms are nothing like that., technically speaking, the rose joints on the steering arms and TCAs are actually Spherical Bearings.

22-in.%20spherical%20bearing.jpg

basically the same as a rose joint, but without the threaded housing. the TCAs and Steering arms have slots machined into them and use circlips to retain the bearing in the arm

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I'll try VAGParts for prices, I have access to tools and a workshop after hours through work. As long as it doesn't leave a mess or take up space during the daytime it's fine. Could this be done in a few hours with the right tools?

Or is it easier to let a pro do it?

I'll try VAGParts for prices, I have access to tools and a workshop after hours through work. As long as it doesn't leave a mess or take up space during the daytime it's fine. Could this be done in a few hours with the right tools?

Or is it easier to let a pro do it?

if your on about the tie-rods -

as long as you can get that end 13mm off (i think its 13, or 15) it'l take you 10 - 15min per side.

dont need many tools - than at most:

socket / wrench for the nut/bolt on the ends at the wheel end, and a socket and spanner for the inner end...

oh and maybe a balljoint seperator and then some patience with that balljoint end......

  • Author

OK, now I'm confused.

There's play in my steering, caused by aged bushes apparently.

So is it the tie rods at fault, or am I pissing into the wind by changing them?

And if it's not the tie rods, wtf do I need to change?

I'm lost. :?

OK, now I'm confused.

There's play in my steering, caused by aged bushes apparently.

So is it the tie rods at fault, or am I pissing into the wind by changing them?

And if it's not the tie rods, wtf do I need to change?

I'm lost. :?

only way you'll find out really is to start dismantling and see what state they are in

okay tie rod ends feel firm-ish and can move about with a bit of force (not freely!!!)

knackered tie rod ends feel sloppy or will only really move about in one direction (they supposed to be full of grease) or will flop about everywhere.

it could be the rack itself but i haven't seen a duff steering rack on a polo yet, let alone a 200000mile golf or anything

have you checked the antiroll bar bushes? and the did you say youd done the track control arms or was that someone else if you haven't, check the bushes on this too!

check :

number 31 the arb blocks - should be tight and you shouldnt be able to move the ARB (30) at all by hand really

check bolts 36,37 are tight, this is the bracket for the antiroll bar block on the drivers side.

and also check 33's are there and not loose (these arent on very tight - be careful these thread easily by overtightening. think its only 25 nm or torque to tighten them)

check 22/18 if you haven't done the TCA's recently

check the end of the tie rod which is just below bolt 39 as above

Edited by rae

  • Author

Cool, thanks.

I've got G-Laderseite ARB blocks, which are ok, and I'm thinking the TCAs are probably alright too as they're fairly fresh.

So I think that leaves the tie rods as no. 1 suspect.

the reason i knew mine were shagged was because i could twist them back and forth towards the back of the car and back again. didnt notice much difference afterwards to be honest though. oh... and i didnt need ball joint seperators either they all came straight off.

I went to VW to get some today....your looking at £69 each for the G40 specific items....yay!

Edited by Tav

  • Author

Oof...

  • Author

My car's now developed an knocking noise, a single donk when I turn. Doesn't do it all the time, but it wasn't doing it at all before. Arse fez.

Anyway, I've had a quick look and my passenger side steering arm feels fairly solid, not much movement there.

The other one's really quite loose, and can be rocked about by hand.

I'll change them both, of course, but I think there's more life left in the passenger side one than the driver side.

It's quite easy to determine which is at fault, you jack it up and shake the wheel side to side and see where theres play.

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