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mk3 Coupe front and rear strut brace

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I take it these are the correct braces,

STRUT BRACE

Also are there front and rear lower braces to improve handling further.

Cheers

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Braces for where? There's no point putting a brace on the back because nothing needs bracing - the shocks,unlike the front struts,have no sideways movement. The only body flex is twist,and it'd take a X brace between the towers to reduce that - a horizontal bar wont do anything the rubber top mounts wont soak up,and thats also the case on the front if you're using rubber top mounts.

The rear beam axle is one piece.

Strength between the front chassis legs and lower front TCA's make sense on this car. Otherwise,there are braces for a range of cars,yet they were originally made only for the cars that needed them - until they became cool,then everyone wanted them whether they needed them or not - and the placebo effect,combined with new alloys,always ensured they were happy customers.

Where would a lower brace go on a torsion beam that bolts direct to chassis legs that are welded directly to the floor panel?

If you'll buy it,someone on ebay will sell it.

  • Author

Actually now you mention it i do see your point. Is there anything for the front that would help steering responce.

I suppose the best thing to reduce body flex would be a propper cage, i can feel the car twist on certain slow corners round my way.

Other than a cage, any other suggestions, or where do i buy a propper cage from.

Cheers for the pointers though mike, makes sence now.

Edited by Messydan

you dont need a cage, Gladersite arb blocks, Gladersite track contol arm bushes, G-adersite rear beam bushes, ged's lower strut brace, gt/g40 rear beam, good suspensions setup, new top mounts, then get her on the 4 wheel aligment (tracking) sorted

Edited by polokid

  • Author

I've got PhillJs EVO STV suspension fitted ( new rear shocks on there way) and new top mounts and G40 front brakes.

I know its a 15 year old car but it just feels flimsy and i want it stiffer, do the parts explained above really make a huge difference.

You think that feels flimsy,you wanna drive an old Fiesta..

But yeah,the right mix of G-ladersite parts are hailed somewhat,and such carefully matched poly kits make sense by getting what little rigidity there is right into the suspension - instead of stiffening the shell,then allowing it to float about in sloppy bushes.

You would benefit from a properly welded-in cage to strengthen the shell once the bushes,springs,dampers and link-geometry is sorted out - but as Polokid says,there's really no need on a road car.

I'd sort bushes etc. first like MikeyMK says.

I was going for a set up like this:

Front End:

G40 Track Control Arms (rose jointed)

G40 Steering Arms (rose jointed)

G-Ladersite ARB Blocks

Front Upper Strut Brace (not really needed but looks cool, would have required mods to brake resivoir to fit)

Ged Front Lower Brace Bar

New VAG Top Mounts

Gaz Coilovers

Rear End:

New VAG Rear Beam Bushes

Gaz Coilovers

GT/G40 Rear Beam Axle

I'm now doing the same as above but getting rid of the front ARB all together in favour of a PPP wishbone conversion. So no need for the G-Ladersite ARB blocks and ged brace bar, everything else remains the same.

I'm also stitch seam-welding the car around the engine bay and perhaps some of the chassis as well to help stregthen the shell.

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