yeah a "sniffer" test. Just a thing you dip into the header tank and it changes colour if it detects exhaust gases in there. Maybe a local garage would just do it for you if you ask nicely?

Do the coolant pipes feel hard after a few seconds of starting the car?

Give that man a sticker! thats the one ta

yeah I've rung the garage and I'm off up now to sniffer test it, dont think it does sniff tho lol

coolant pipes feel the usual can squidge them, i did fire it up this morning and it was idling at 2k as I've fiddled it and it did get up to temperature quite quickish...

but might just be me, the header tank test will tell me, and if it is leaking then....

head off is the only option i have surely?

all the time I'm thinking, if i have compression it cant be that bad lol

Trial by omission? One way to find out if its coolant,is to remove all traces of coolant. Empty the water out completely when the engine is warm - remove cap,airlock,lower rad pipe,give it a few turns to flush it all through.

Wait for engine to go cold - dont refit cap.

Now take it for a spin - few laps around the block,nice and close to home because that's where you wanna be when the temp gauge starts reaching hot.

You'll have plenty of time to check for white smoke and if there is,its not coolant. If there isnt,and i suspect there wont be,then coolant was getting in the combustion.

All be it,a tiny amount.

well i went out this morning fired it up and it wasnt smoking bad, then come back to go to garage, put foot down and clouds of smoke, left it running, it is leaking water from the cat to midbox, it has to be a water leak, no need to test, it has to be...

it is also running funny too, not wanting to idle, pulsing then cutting out, throttle even stuck at one point, there is too many annoying facots here, my dodgy idle, the dodgy running, white smoke, its time to strip it down i think and have a examination, i think my diagnosis above as to where the leak is is probabley correct...

i will start a "progress" thread lol

Woo Hoo I was right, which is an arse :(

Oh, so its the headgasket? I was going to say you said something about a new map along with injectors, the new map might be drowning the injectors if they have a weak spark. :)

if its headgasket i'd suggest a new torque wrench as you and dougy both had gasket probs (cam after he bought dougys)

dan man u never hav anyluck and its not as if u even abuse the car lol

well i dont think its a normal head gasket failure, but once i get this shit work out of way I'm gunna get dirty and strip it...

oh joys

The Superchip you fitted controls the ignition timing as well as mixture, hence the pinking. This is in effect a small explosion, rather than a controlled burn, and can lead to greatly increased pressures and "hot spots" and could have been enough to damage the head gasket - especially if it was weak already. As you previously had a water leak, this could have contributed as, even if the temperature gauge showed normal, the head is the first part to lose water and can heat up in isolated pockets. The leak may be very small and the water loss barely noticeable (1 litre of water produces 1,666 litres of steam), but I reckon a head gasket failure is the most likely culprit, either that or a "mate" of yours is trying to a)do your head in or b)get the car off you cheap by pouring water up your exhaust when you're not looking

well i have been out and stripped it down...

firstly i found alot of fuel in the bottom of the inlet manifold, and in the inlet ports on head...

upon taking the head off i think i have found the problem, just like coupegts says above, that is what has happened i do believe...

I was running water in the coolant, as i knew my waterhousing was leaking, so really that has helped me in the diagnosis...

____

as this pic shows, you can see where the gasket meets the waterways, leaving that orange stamp shape

well the pic shows 2 and 3 and a bit of 4

well look by 3 as you look at 2oclock, you can see the rust leak mark, now i know form taking the head off the water runs, but this mark isnt just run water, it i am pritty sure is the cause...

so, new torque wrench it is!

Dear me daniel, did you build the engine ? At least you will do better this time yea ? :-D

If its teh standard composite headgasket that went, you might need a better one to stop it going again if it was caused by the chip, you thought about a cevlar composite one? or solid copper?, However, copper is hard to seal!

If you need an uprated gasket there is a metal one available from a newer model Polo, right off the shelf.

I think he was already using a metal gasket. might be why it's not sealed if g40 head bolts were used.

dodgy torque wrench, mechanic, or both if you ask me!

Mechanic didn't have enough muscle to turn torque wrench

I watch him

call it what ever you want dick heads!

I've used 2 of them metal gaskets, and had issues with them, and dougy had issues with his, I'm putting it down to the gasket, theres just too many issues with it, being metal i cant see it sealing as nicely as a standard gasket, and torque figues will not be right if it a thinner gasket too?

I'm gunna go back to a standard gasket as they are more reliable...

Not all head bolts stretch as they should - i always buy eleven,in case one is too weak.

Its especially noticeable with metal gaskets,and with the AEE i had to use the spare as i felt one really let go in the last eighth of a turn.

i only know you and dougy had metal gaskets go - sam gave his about 30,000 mile of abuse and never had issues and I never heard anyone else having issues.

I'd say getting bolts torqued to right torque in right order is key... firstly with a decent torque wrench and then angle tightened with a breaker bar....

at the end of the day its your call.. but with a wider gasket (normal g40) you should really use g40 head bolts which are longer too. (vag only btw)

yeah but there isnt much difference if i recall in size, man i darent do it now, pete i will give you £5 to come do my head bolts?

drive it over and i'll tighten em! haahaha

i'll be busy till next tues at earliest or i would

pete

As Pete said metal one was great on my car, never had any issues in 30k's use with it. Torqued it using Haynes figures too iirc.

Might be time to buy a new torque wrench Dan!

Screwfix do a slightly agricultural torque wrench for the princely some of 12 peounds and 49 pennies! Won't set to less than 28Nm (20lb/ft) and the setting is 'ish' but it works for me.

See here

Just checked the link and it doesn't work. What is it with links on here lately? Just go to Screwfix.com and search 'torque wrench'.

Edited 30 August, 200719 yr by labougie