Right well last week i bought a kit off ebay from a company called hawk, others from here had a good experience from them, but mines not gone quite so easily.

Basically I've got everything installed, actuators in the doors wired up to the main control, I've tested it with a multimeter and I'm getting 12V at both ends of all the wiring, I've also set the meter to Ohms and its showing a 0.1 - 0.2 over all the wires so there isnt any breaks anywhere or lots of resistance over the connections. So I'm lead to believe its either the main 5 wire door actuator or its the main box that everything goes to.

My permanent live comes from behind the head unit and its 100% permanent, not an ignition live. I'm using an existing ground stud into the passengers inner wing and thats fine. The fuse for the head unit has been renewed tonight, and the fuse that came with the kit is fine. I'm really at a loss as to why its not working!

Any help would be very much appreciated!!

Thanks Alot. Rob :)

You shouldnt be tapping into other wires the central locking will need a 10-30 amp actuators require alot of juice they are quite strong depends on quality. Stereos how ever dont require a large load. Try ground it somewere else remember it needs to be paint free straight to the chassis helps. Also give this a positive connection straight to the battery it could not be working due to lack of power.

aye. will try taking a live from the battery, cant hurt can it. Specs say that with 2 actuators then it should only draw 15A and the stereo fuse it 10A. But yeah i might as well take it from the battery. Ground seems fine tbh checked it with a multimeter and the resistance isnt high. its a proper stud into the body, like a manufactures thing, I'm using the same type in the boot for my amp with 2 pieces of 4AWG attached and its fine. Cant see that being at fault but ill give it a good look over to check.

Right, I've made a proper job of the live and ground connections, crimped on a ring terminal to each, ran the live straight to the battery and the ground to the stud that had the blower earth on it. So they are 100% now, I'm sure of it. The bloody thing still refuses to work, on either the remote fob or just moving the main 5 wire actuator. Its doing my head in.

Just one question that isnt answered in the instructions, do the white and brown wires which are meant to go to an alarm system, need connecting together or something if no after market/factory alarm is fitted? These are the only 2 wires that are loose, all the rest are getting 12V at both ends and they all have the same resistance.

Help!! Thanks, Rob. :)