I can't get the balljoint apart, where the steering arm meets the strut, because the ball keeps spinning however its held tight. I might need to take a metal file to the balljoint puller, like in the FAQ thread, but i'll leave that for now. I can't get it to mount properly so I pikeyed a G-Clamp to use instead of the proper puller. We managed to get the nut right to the top of the thread but no further. I've had a blowtorch on it and melted the thread out from the inside, tried a hammer-type balljoint splitter to see if it made any difference, and I'm thinking of resorting to hacksawing the nut in half in hope of it moving easier.

I really don't have a clue how to sort this out. I could possibly borrow an angle grinder and attack the nut with it, but i'd risk damaging the thread its on. Otherwise it looks like i may have to hacksaw through the joing and replace the entire steering arm, which I'm loathe to do!

Anyone got any suggestions?

Edited 10 October, 200718 yr by skatty_01

use a ball joint seperator to push the taper into the strut - which will force the threaded bit to stay still and the nut will come off - as it says in haynes!

Pic shows how i had the proper balljoint splitter mounted, however the ball just span. I can't see any other way, unless I'm using the separator wrong.

is that a track rod arm or ball joint?

cant you hacksaw off the thread with the nut on, then pull the two apart and replace the track rod end?

i have a ball joint seperator and it looks likea hyoooooooooge tuning fork, i had a small one first but it was so laborious, the long one makes it a breeze with about a foot of leverage

DOOD!

like mensioned above - u have to get the nut fully off before you use the seperater.

use a set of molegrips or something to get the arm back attached to the trackrod, then because it is an interference fit it will hold tight whilst you get the nut off.

and when you have done that.

screw an old similar nut ontop of the old threads (loose) and bash it with a hammer a few times to shake it up.

if all else fails - drive off and on a curb a couple of times with it loosly tightened

you can use a ball joint separator one part on bottom of the steering arm and the fork between the nut and the strut... cranking it then pushes the arm into the strut.. its tapered so stops it from turning and you can get the nut off

If the joint is fucked anyway, just cut it off!!

Lamp it hard with a lump hammer from underneath, then buzzgun the nut.

Or, what my method was, hammer the little fucker good from below (from the left in yer first piccy) to try and wedge it up and undo the nut, trying to do it smooth, not jerkily. (but yeti got in there first! )

Edited 10 October, 200718 yr by Fonz

get a grinder and take the nut off, you dont need the ball joint or nut anyway as you get news ones!

In fact, that end's buggered anyway - get the grinder on the case.

Might end up taking an angle grinder to the nut. It is well and truly wedged on, it wont move up or down the thread. When i took a blowtorch to it (pikey i know) it started bubbling inside - is this likely to be loctite type stuff, or are the threads plastic?

And do you mean that by pushing the steering arm into the strut (from left to right in the pic) it will lock the balljoint from spinning? If so i can try that! Trouble is i really dont think the nut will move, so i might have to attack it some more with the hacksaw...

Excuse my ignorance - which is the 'end' youre referring to? I removed the whole arm where it meets the steering rack in the centre, in order to get the strut off. WHat will i need to buy to replace it?

when they're still on the car, I get a block of wood and a jack and jack the wood up to the bottom of the ball joint so it pushes it hard into the arm. That usually holds it in place well enough to undo them. But as you've got it off the car and both the joint and the nut looked fucked already, you might as well get a hack saw or angle grinder on the go.

^^^ We tried that but nothing could stop the nut from twisting the whole joint. What is the arm that the balljoint is attached to called please? So i can order a new one... Thanks!

I believe that is the tie-rod. Looks like its the passenger side you've got there. According to Haynes you can replace the tie-rod end on that side (by screwing it off), but the other side, you have to replace the whole tie-rod. I thought it was t'other way round, but Haynes NEVER LIES so you should be laughing!

Its drivers side mr fonz, but thanks all the same! I used a hammer type balljoint splitter, between the nut and the strut, and it locked the balljoint in place... The nut just wound off! Well stoked! Is it possible to replace just the rubber on the tie rod if its fucked? Or do i have to replace the whole thing?

The rubber is split in a few places. Will it cause problems if i leave it on the car? But yeah I'm pretty pleased - four hours at it this afternoon, and after ten minutes with a new perspective it pretty much fell off in my hand!

Thanks to all for help and advice, i really appreciate it! Just need to know whether i can replace purely the rubber, or whether it has to be the whole lot?

Edited 10 October, 200718 yr by skatty_01

OS one is the whole arm and make sure you get the garage to order the correct one. the part numbers are very simular,

the difference is the letter at the end IIRC, IE ones F ones G, ones for the MK2 and is 2.5" longer and youll get 19deg of toe in.

I know, i got the wrong one 1st time round and theres not enough adjustment on the NS balljoint to correct it.

If the nut is that stuck then the threads are knackered, youll need the whole arm but there only £26 so its not too bad.

Edited 10 October, 200718 yr by Messydan

Anyone know if you can get just the rubber boots though? I need a couple for the offside, as mine are a bit split.

dont think you can, once is fucked its fucked!!

Messydan : where can you get one for £26??? I just had to pay £48 for mine :( an all other places wanted near on £70!!