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post your mk2 weber install pics please

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i ve been searching for info on fitting a weber as i have incomplete dmtr coming , i spoke to gaz the moderator and he says alot of the old good info has been deleted :cry:

if you have any install pics that might help me or any others could you please post them up, especialy any close ups that show the linkage , jetting info if you run differant jets or anything usefull like a user manual etc

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I have a complete weber DMTR still in the box so i have a copy of the instructions? I will forward them onto you when i get chance to photocopy them if you like?

There used to be loads of good jazz on here regarding weber carbs but as said majority has been lost.

:-(

Let's be fair, it's high time to get this info back up, and people do have enough to rebuild what once was a good little thread.

This is all the junk I had with me - GK Manifold, DMTR, Choke Cable, Swirl Pot, gaskets, nuts and studs and the adaptor plate itself. The 'wedge' in the adaptor plate was chopped off completely, as it is otherwise a big restriction.

The parts list for the adaptor kit is as follows, bought from Aldon Automotive.

1 x 99901139 Cost £32.08 + Vat = £37.69 - Adaptor plate

4 x 99901160 Cost £1.33 + Vat = £1.56 each - M6 Studs

4 x 99901165 Cost £0.16 + Vat = £0.19 each - M6 Nuts

1 x 99900513 Cost £5.40 + Vat = £6.35 - Insulator gasket

4 x 99900286 Cost £1.14 + Vat = £1.46 each - M8 Studs

4 x 99900097 Cost £0.72 + Vat = £0.85 each - M8 Nuts

1 x 99900.874 Cost £11.67 + Vat = £13.71 - Choke Cable

The only things I lacked after this was a gasket to go between the manifold and the plate - I made one from gasket paper, easy enough. I also needed a couple of washers for the nuts, but that's all simple enough.

The list was provided by Oddball over a year ago - since then some items have changed at Aldon, but the ones in that list should be good to go, but give them an e-mail first.

The GK manifold with a dehedgehogged heater plate. The pipe to the left was blocked off with a big fat gearbox bolt, as it is surplus to requirements on anything other than a GK, and the electrical plug on the right side is surplus to requirements too, so it was left in to plug the hole.

The throttle link of my DMTR. In conjunction with the adapter plate I used, not only did it collide with the GK manifold but I didn't have any good means of fixing the throttle, so I had to do some chopping to leave just the bits necessary for the choke mechanism, whilst using an old pierberg throttle bit and chopping everything except the cable linkage off, with some extra shaved off to properly snuggle up to what was left of the original linkage. You can sort of see in the second image, a mock-up of the installation.

Someone buy me a DSLR, then I'd take a million pictures and they'd all be like WEEEOOOAAAGGH.

I'm gonna sticky this so we can make the appropriate DMTR and DMTL FAQ.

The 2-pin plug on the manifold is the temp switch for the hedgehog. I'm gonna wire mine up I think as I was having some cold start issues after switching to GK ignition.

Mmm I think I'll be following this. Is a DMTR/DMTL a LOT better than a Pierburg in good working order?

I found big improvements in the way it feels to drive, half thanks to the throttle pattern, the manual choke and the direct throttle linkage. When you put the pedal down, the carb is wide open. No vacuum diaphragms or plungers controlling the second throttle plate. In terms of power gains, it's not THAT much if Oddball's Dyno Charts are anything to go by, but the thing is there are no drawbacks. The GK manifold on it's own probably gives just as much peak power gain, but there are drawbacks to a GK. DMTR's and DMTL's are well supported, easy to service and set up, and still quite common.

Here's Oddball's chart - he took it before and after he installed a DMTL. You can see how the DMTL has a good capacity higher in the rev range, I wish they had taken it up to about 6200 or 6500.

carb25.jpg

Torque curve seems noticeably different. I can't say I'm super happy with the way my car drives, after all it's a 1.3 in a Mk2 Golf - but it's not too bad. Slower than the Polo, but that also had more power along with less weight :lol:

Circa 75 bhp would be enough for me, wouldn't mind experimenting with different cams too. I think the Mk4 Polo SPI inlet manifold is something worth looking into, as well.

^^^^^^^^^^^^ 4hp & 4lbft gain :shock:

Admittingly my car struggles to even reach 6500rpm (5500rpm is my ideal shiting point) but I'm confident in saying that I've gained at the very least an additional 10hp.

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thanks for the response so far guys

mods is there any chance this can pruned of general chit chat and kept to just weber facts and pics so its easier for people to find facts

Don't forget, 10bhp would be nearly a 20% gain. That's a lot, I'd say Oddball's gains are very much the realistic (and PROVEN) numbers.

I wouldn't expect an improved throttle body (pretend such a thing exists) to pile on 15bhp to a GT, more like 6 or 7bhp. Not forgetting all along that this is just peak bhp numbers.

When the topic grows a bit, either I or someone else will re-organise it. At this point there is still a few people who could chip in, so best to wait a while until it gets milled down. It's a topic in it's infancy and will eventually be sorted out, and a comprehensive FAQ put here.

Pierburg Fact: poo.

Weber Fact: Uber fast and Uber fuel economy. :lol:

in which case 6-7hp is a huge gain for me. :lol:

Edited by nick0323

I know I don't run Club Polo, but I think it would be a good idea just to build up info etc in this thread, then start a new one with just facts and pin it then lock it. This one could be used as a help thread?

So maybe if everyone posts their own jet setups and parts they've used?

  • Author

also if anyone knows anything about say fitting a weber from a non polo...i.e 1600/1800 golf etc or other brand cars , info would be good

Well, mine is from my dad's old 1300 supersport Fiesta :lol:

edit: but not strictly fitted to the golf yet

Edited by tobyk

1st Stage

Idle 45

Main 120

Emulsion F30

Air 165

2nd Stage

Idle 70

Main 125

Emulsion F30

Air 175

Gaz

This applies to a Weber DMTL with 24/25mm Venturi sizes.

Edited by nick0323

Oddballs weber dmtl wasnt jetted right when he dyno'd that, I'm 90% sure he had the original jet setup in there:

(Originals)

1st Stage

Idle 45

Main 100

Emulsion F22

Air 155

2nd Stage

Idle 70

Main 115

Emulsion F30

Air 185

Which as everyone knows now is way wrong.

Most likely alot more power to be had if he was running some reasonable selected jets

Anyways heres the manual incase anyone is interested:

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_1.jpg

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_2.jpg

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_3.jpg

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_4.jpg

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_5.jpg

http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3/hypoj...rent=dmtl_6.jpg

I think these are the optimum jets according to gaz's o2 sensor tests using a DMTR (Correct me if I'm wrong):

First Stage

45

105

f30

155 or 160

Second Stage

70

115

f30

175 (or there abouts)

  • Author

how about a pic of a proper vw choke handle if anyone has one? did the golf2 ones fit ?

Fast Road Cars sell one the same as what I had I think, fits and suits the dashboard very well.

Look on ebay for 'em.

  • Author

maybe we can add reccomended vendors for carbs and parts

http://www.ruddies-berlin.de

Admittedly best for ordering if you can send a fax in German, but good exploded diagrams of stuff like pumps and safety fuel cut-off valves and Pierburg problem diagnosis.

:lol:

Refurbing a DMTR isn't quite the 10 minute job I was thinking it would be...

To all those viewing, I'm currently working on a full write-up to be finished soon.

I could do with the experiences of anyone who's serviced a DMTL or DMTR, just so as to give an overview.

Danny, might be able to help, I've sent a PM, cheers.

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