Oh and its a DMTR

right so chop off each bit

does the pierburg bit offer right up to the weber spindle? is the shaft a square or something under that 13mm nut, so that it doesnt spin pn the shaft when you work the pedal

Yea the shaft is retangular and so is the hole in the peirburg linkage

Edited 3 November, 200718 yr by hypojam

doesnt sound too hard then....so just a bit off cutting , no need for welding or fabrication of new parts

Just take a very careful look at what your doing because 1 mistake can become a disaster, oh and has to be done with a dremel type tool

A dremel is the only tool for the job. Quite cheap, and worth it's weight in gold. You chop the original quadrant so that only the choke cam follower (the bit with the screw) is left, and then you chop the pierberg so that only the cable holster and guide are left. Then you remove material from the pierberg quadrant until it can fit flat 'on top' of the original quadrant. It's more than strong enough, but be careful not to cross-thread the spindle - I did, and the spindle will need retapping if I ever take the nut off.

can anyone tell me if theres differant dmtr bodies available? from what I've been watching on ebay and forums there seems to be one with 2 fuel pipes in the front right corner and another one

is there a way to tell each on aaprt if the tag is missing and its a ebay numpty? edit as I've now got mine...its stamped along the bottom flange at the front of the carb..either dmtr/dmtl

Edited 5 November, 200718 yr by steveo3002

are these the parts that have to be changed?? Is that the only bit that is take from the pierburg carb? Not really looking forward to cutting bits off either of them but i will be doing at the end of this month. If needed when i do it i will get some detailed pics up of me doing it.

Anyways i tried to circle the part on my carb that will be replaced (or can be)

....i also took hypojams pic and circled the same part once the modification using the pierburg part has taken place....

Please correct me if my cirles ae not correct.

This may not help but....

Good pics hypojam. :-D

That's correct - the modified pierberg part is put over the original throttle part which is also modified to let it fit, leaving just the choke-cam follower so the choke can operate properly.

Oh good!! Still confused as to which bits i am meant to cut off each one though. Only as i am sure it has to be fairly precise. I am sure that it will become clearer once i have the pierburg in hand at the same time as the weber. Does any welding etc need to be done?? Or is it just a case of fitting the pierburg throttle part on top of the weber throtle prt with enough cut from both to make them sit properly. Any more info on where to cut, what to cut and how they mate together would be great. If any more detailed pics of my carb and the bits on need to be taken to help i am more than happy to take some close ups.

Great help so far. :-)

It's just cutting and trail-fitting, you can't go wrong doing it with a dremel. Again, cut the original down so that only the choke follower is left. Then cut the pierberg arm so that only the throttle 'loop' and the cable guide are left. Then keep trimming the pierberg part until it sits flat 'on top' of the original arm, which goes on the spindle before it.

It's dead easy, you've just got to have the right tool.

One more thing - you might need a throttle spring aid to help with the throttle return. You can use good elastic bands or you can use the spring off the rear bench retainers (I don't need them because I don't have the rears) and hook it between the 'loop' the pierberg has to hold the cable end and the top 'screw' holding the vacuum diaphragm unit on just above and forward of the throttle cable. Works fine and I haven't had it ping off or escape.

right more questions ....mines here now so keen to crack on

the base plate has a fair chunk of it blocked off...I'm thinking cut this out , but it must be there for a reason ? any downsides to removing it?

the 2 water pipes i need to join....am i likely to buy a joining piece localy or would copper pipe do the trick?

Do you mean the wedge-type thing which seems to do nothing but sit in the way at a very steep angle? Chop it out, but try to be neat.

yeah the wedge in the base plate?

its just when i dewedged my g60 tb it made it jerky as hell around town...hence i wondered if its there for that reason

can anyone tell me why my dmtr has 2 fuel pipes? i can only see 1 on all the other pics except oddballs on cgti

Edited 5 November, 200718 yr by steveo3002

yeah the wedge in the base plate?

its just when i dewedged my g60 tb it made it jerky as hell around town...hence i wondered if its there for that reason

can anyone tell me why my dmtr has 2 fuel pipes? i can only see 1 on all the other pics except oddballs on cgti

Its because everyone else has DMTL's which is why you are only seeing 1 fuel pipe where as you and Dan have DMTR's so you have 2 because weber wanted to be complicated. Actually I don't know why I'm just being silly.

Edited 5 November, 200718 yr by nick0323

^^ so its a inlet and return as per the pooburg? no probs then?

Just to let you all know to expect a DMTR/DMTL service walkthrough in the next yearbook. Submitted by near enough simply a kind stranger, it's going to be thick with images and captions and so on.

any chance of posting up the float height ajustemnts and the choke gap

might as well try to set mine up while its off

"Check the float height. It should be 7mm with the gasket fitted. Hold the lid vertical so the float tang just touches the needle valve base. I use a 7mm Allen key as a feeler gauge, all the mechanical tappet boys will have one ! A quick rule of thumb we used in our x-flow days was it the float was parallel to lid when vertical, you're not far away. Bend the float tang if required to adjust, rarely, it must be said. Lid now ready for refit, once carb body all cleaned out."

As written by Iain clarke, the submitter.

any mention of choke gap mate? i have info that tells you how to ajust it but not what gap is req

You're best off setting it on the car. Try about 3 turns out to start with. Not loads, but my car idles about 1,600 to 2000 on full choke.

We used to check the choke flap gap with a 1/16 inch drill, choke fully closed. That would be 1.6 mm for the less old!

Kinross eh? Gonna be at the Broxden meet? Could be handy

Handy for who? As usual it will depend on my shifts, no exactly a regular ! Ask Andy!

is it possible to remove the carb with the inlet on? just had a grope around and cant reach the front bolts?