I am pissed off with wheel bolts and having to line up holes etc, while balancing a wheel in mid-air.

Looked into a Stud/Nut type affiar and there are loads on eBay etc.

How are you supposed to tighten up the studs?

Anybody know of a good reason not to get them?

Edited 2 January, 200818 yr by GiorgioGT

You shouldn't have to balance the wheel in mid air. You should be able to put it on the hub (which will hold it there) and rotate it until the holes line up. If they don't line up, then it means your centre bore is the wrong size!

Well thats my understanding of it anyway!

Lol, how often are you taking the wheels off?

Seems like alot of effort for a 'lazy?' reason.

Kam's right, you should be able to mount them on the hub.

If the problem is you have the incorrect centrebore wheels, then you ought to get a set of those hub reducer thingys.

A lot of the race spec boys on Club GTI have converted to studs. Shall see if I can dig out a thread or two for you.

he could have universal spacers which means you wont be able to balence it on the hub id sugest hubcentric spacers theres a good set on ebay at the moment !!!

A lot of the race spec boys on Club GTI have converted to studs. Shall see if I can dig out a thread or two for you.

i read that thread. apparently there is some difficulty getting a decent quality set for a reasonable price. if i remember correctly it is to do with how the studs tighten into the hub that was causing the concern.

Pettsy

if i remember correctly it is to do with how the studs tighten into the hub that was causing the concern.

Pettsy

thats what scares me. they dont seem to have anywhere to get a spanner on etc.

the only way I can think of is tightening the nut up all the way. then using that to tighten it to the hub. But then whats stopping it coming undone when you take the bolt off?

Locktite?

I am lazy yes, and my wheels seem to be on/off pretty much all the time as I am always tinkering.

I can't understand why they don't add two flat sides to the smooth bit on the middle of manifold studs. It would make them so much easier to wind in, and the same applies here. if you could file/grind two flat faces opposite each other, they could be wound in with a spanner.

the problem is, some of them dont have a gap in the thread to seperate the two ends of the stud. so you cant actually tighten them down into the hub at all, where as others do, and also have an 8mm allen head machined into the end so you can tighten them in and obviously use loctite to bind them in

i wouldnt mind a set, i agree it is an arse with bolts. especially when all you seem to do wheels have to come on and off..

they look like they have some kind of allen key in the end and a flat section.

Anybody else think £50 is abit steep. Anybody know of those obscure websites for car builders etc?

www.rallydesign.co.uk do a good set for just over 30 squids..... just locktite the short end ito the hub....(the stronger stuff)

you need the 12 dia by 1.5 pitch...

big thread from cgti as mentioned above

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51842

The problem the ClubGTi lot had was the concept of quality. I have the Grayston Engineering studs, which cost around £12 delivered. Yes, they are not as good as the VW motorsport ones, which cost nearly that each. I sold 45 sets of these to Peugeot 205 rally car owners 5 years ago. Not had a complaint yet. They are fine as long as you keep checking them. They do get dirty, the finish is only galvanising which corrodes eventually. There is no issue with strength or the manufacturing process of the Grayston products. They are an OEM supplier. They have a rolled thread. Some of the people on the ClubGTi thread spent a lot of money on parts which had cut threads. When you install them, you need to clean out the hubs with a tap and then use a decent studlock. When the time comes to remove them, just warm the hub with a blowtorch and the glue softens and they come out.

Yeha can you still get hold of a set of these for me, and are they the same length as OEM bolts? I intend to run at least a 3mm spacer, and while i know that standard bolts are long enough to run a 10mm spacer, i'd be worried that these will be too short. Are they available direct from grayston?

The problem the ClubGTi lot had was the concept of quality. I have the Grayston Engineering studs, which cost around £12 delivered. Yes, they are not as good as the VW motorsport ones, which cost nearly that each. I sold 45 sets of these to Peugeot 205 rally car owners 5 years ago. Not had a complaint yet. They are fine as long as you keep checking them. They do get dirty, the finish is only galvanising which corrodes eventually. There is no issue with strength or the manufacturing process of the Grayston products. They are an OEM supplier. They have a rolled thread. Some of the people on the ClubGTi thread spent a lot of money on parts which had cut threads. When you install them, you need to clean out the hubs with a tap and then use a decent studlock. When the time comes to remove them, just warm the hub with a blowtorch and the glue softens and they come out.

is that with nuts then? i just bought myslf and y old man a full set ......?

Decent nuts for VW's are hard to find because of the radius seat. I got some from a mate who deals with Trilock. Google for D14R. They cost me £16 delivered. If you have changed to 60 degree seats due to aftermarket rims, then Ford, Rover or Opel nuts will do.

grayston actually do radial nuts, i got some locally

I think the reason I didn't get their's was that the ones on their website were not open ended and my studs are very long.

anyone know what nuts i should be using with mattigs, they look like they are designed for the VW ones..

I suppose it depends on how long the studs are. If they are long, then you'll need an open nut, if they're just right, then you can use a closed one. I've allowed for quite large spacers as I'm sharing the wheels with my Manta and there's 15mm difference in the offset. I can go from the fwd GM ET49 through to ET25 from a BMW.

what manta do you have?

'86 18s Hatch. I've had a 16V Coupe and this one is getting a 16V eventually.

I think its well worth doing if your wheels come on and off regularly. They came in handy once for me when my car fell off the jack, but cause the wheel was still in place it just about caught the car (not that that happens very often).