i've been drag racing mine all day and its an absolute tool! 8)

ALTHOUGH i've got problems with my inlet manifold. A design flaw essentially. I've got a persistent air leak thats not doing my power any favours.

I'm going to design and make a manifold much like yours. But can you tell me about the rubber hoses you've usd to attach the carbs. Are they the factory item off the bike? and do they have a little 'bit' around the inside of them that sits on the groove on the carbs to stop them slipping? it also looks like they reduce in size, is that the case? Sorry for all the questions but the more i learn now, the sooner i can get to designing my new manifold. I'm going to head to a bike shop tomorrow to see if i can get those rubbers (provided they are a the factory item!)

There was no rolling road there today like there had been the last couple times so didn't get a pwer figure. But i went up against a calibra turbo and won. A 200hp clio and won, A clio172 and won, my friends C20XE'd mini... and won, and a saxo vts and won :D I'm really looking forward to getting the air leak sorted and having it jetted properly

Quality mate!! those rubbers are actualy VW beetle rubbers thet connet there carbs to the inlet manifold and there spot on for R6 carbs! you need 2 sets, or 4 rubbers, as the beetle only has 2 rubbers, i think the cost me no more than a tenner from volks-a-part!

ah cheers. I'll try GSF for them tomorrow. only place local i imagine i could get them. If not i'll mail order them.

thanks!

did you weld your manifold yourself? I've been searching the net for advice on alu welding, found a real good product but i dont know how it will cope with the engine heat

on the hose side of things, you can buy straight lengths of samco (or other cheaper brands) in various sizes at quite reasonable prices, allways see them at shows going cheap

I'm running silicone hoses on mine, only had it running for around half an hour on the roads though but its been alrite. Sounds the tits.

Are you going to run filters?

ah cheers. I'll try GSF for them tomorrow. only place local i imagine i could get them. If not i'll mail order them.

thanks!

If not there local to me and i get abit of discount for working at vw

those swanky welding rods are more a solder type affair as the base metal isnt melting only the filler rod..

are you using a good quality TIG welder?? ally is funny ol stuff to weld (its my job by the way) and everything needs to be meticulously clean.. with practice you can get results like this:

as for the air leak after welding have you tried the mating surface of the inlet against a straight edge ?? with all the heat thats been put into the flange chances are it will have pulled and distorted.. was the flange bolted onto a solid plate when you welded it???

a skim over with a mill might help or if you know someone with a large belt sander hold it on that until its all flat...

if your not using a gasket you can have them made by ferriday engineering the plus side of this is the gasket will also act as a heat barrier stopping the inlet speak up all theheat off the head and warming the inlet charge...

finally if your using samco or indeed any silicon tubing to connect your carbs to the inlet keep an eye on the inside bore!!! petrol will rot the tube over time and cause all sorts of headaches.. you can get fluoro lined stuff that cures the problem but when i enquired it was about 70 quid a meter!!!

hope some of this helps..

stu

did you weld your manifold yourself? I've been searching the net for advice on alu welding, found a real good product but i dont know how it will cope with the engine heat

on the hose side of things, you can buy straight lengths of samco (or other cheaper brands) in various sizes at quite reasonable prices, allways see them at shows going cheap

I Got those PDF's cheers, na i paid someone a bottle of navy rum for the welding!

I'm running silicone hoses on mine, only had it running for around half an hour on the roads though but its been alrite. Sounds the tits.

Are you going to run filters?

Oh i cant wait to fit my engine! i will run filters, but I'm struggling to find any yet, whats everyone else running?

those swanky welding rods are more a solder type affair as the base metal isnt melting only the filler rod..

are you using a good quality TIG welder?? ally is funny ol stuff to weld (its my job by the way) and everything needs to be meticulously clean.. with practice you can get results like this:

as for the air leak after welding have you tried the mating surface of the inlet against a straight edge ?? with all the heat thats been put into the flange chances are it will have pulled and distorted.. was the flange bolted onto a solid plate when you welded it???

a skim over with a mill might help or if you know someone with a large belt sander hold it on that until its all flat...

if your not using a gasket you can have them made by ferriday engineering the plus side of this is the gasket will also act as a heat barrier stopping the inlet speak up all theheat off the head and warming the inlet charge...

finally if your using samco or indeed any silicon tubing to connect your carbs to the inlet keep an eye on the inside bore!!! petrol will rot the tube over time and cause all sorts of headaches.. you can get fluoro lined stuff that cures the problem but when i enquired it was about 70 quid a meter!!!

hope some of this helps..

stu

Thats neater than i can weld steel! lol, i did put a straight edeg upto it after welding and it was ok, and I'm also running a 2mm thick paper gasket, you reckon thatl be ok?

I Got those PDF's cheers, na i paid someone a bottle of navy rum for the welding!

mmm rum haha

@ germanthing, so you would not recomend i get some of those rods and have a go at a manifold myself? i could get it tig welded, but I'm tight and quite fancy the challenge of having a go myself hehe. sorry to thread hijacl btw

Big4244, what are you doing about engine managment.

I Got those PDF's cheers, na i paid someone a bottle of navy rum for the welding!

mmm rum haha

@ germanthing, so you would not recomend i get some of those rods and have a go at a manifold myself? i could get it tig welded, but I'm tight and quite fancy the challenge of having a go myself hehe. sorry to thread hijacl btw

Big4244, what are you doing about engine managment.

I dont care about hijacking! thats what a forums about, finding ou things! lol, On the engine management side, I'm basicaly binning it and using mk2 golf 1.6 driver, wiring loom, coil, amplifier etc and running the standard fuel pump and 2 fuel pressure regulators!

Edited 13 April, 200818 yr by big4244

nice, I've got a set of ZX636 ninja carbs, apparently there is a throttle position sensor that can be wired into my existing ecu. what this would do i have yet to find out, but I'm spending hours a night lately finding out different things, so anything i find out that will be helpfull i will post up here maby we could get it sticky then

you should be able to get some filters that will fit over the larger circular bit of the carb mouth... i.e. not the trumpet but the larger cast ring. cant really explain a local bike parts shop sells some, although i'm not currently running any.

firstly bare with me as i`m not 100% sure how you german boys are running the carbs...

are you retaining the ECU and using that to control the sparking side of things or do you fit a distributor and keeping things nice and simple like i have on the french rattlebox???

filters- the individula sock type filters are ok but they do restrict the flow somewhat and rob a few horses (never good!!) on shenpars advice (the company that built my engine) a baseplate was fitted to the carbs allowing me to run a bar filter across the tops of all 4 inlets...

please excuse the wiring its an early pic....

welding- i`m all for people doing things themselves and if you fancy having a go at a DIY inlet fair play to you but without the right gear it can be a pig... if ally`s causing issues i`ve seen a couple of people use mild steel for the inlet as welding that is much easier..

inlet gasket- papers fine as long as both surfaces are nice and flat and smooth... the trouble is as with the feriday type gaskets they dont deform to fill in low spots or compress to allow for high spots... having sid that its probably a good thing as if they did compress they`d squeeze into the inlet and restrict airflow.... maybe try a bead of silicone round the flange and let it dry before you bolt it up...

TPS- if your using a distribtor to control the spark you wont need this as the dizzy will work out what to do... if your using your STD ecu or an aftermarket ignition only ECU (such as omex100) you`ll need to wire it in so the ecu knows butterfly angle and can sort out the advance accordingly i dont know what ecu brand the veedubs use so cant comment if they`ll be able to read the yamaha TPS but you should be able to get a VW one onto the carb spindle which the ecu recognise

on a final note- paying welders with alcohol is highly appreciated.. lmao

i bought piper X socks for full radius webers There abit big so I'm running two covering two trumpets each as four were too packed but they dont look right, abit stretched. The only others I've seen are the universal ones that you build your own base plate but not sure if there's enough room between the carbs and the bulkhead

K&N box

for a minute i thought you thought we were german! :lol:

here is my setup:

I've ditched all the ecu associated with the engine and i am running a setup very similar to big4244, its the coil, dizzy and module from an early 90s mk2 polo. after electric but before ecu controlled ignition.

My manifold is stubs of mild steel welded to plates which bolt over each port. with silicon hose linking onto the carbs. there is a short section of the same mild steel tube inside each silicon hose as i initially had problems with the hose sucking flat. I will be ditching this setup however for a design like big4244s.

I've got no filters currently, but the ones i am going to get are designed for these carbs (albeit in motorcycle applications) so shouldn't sap too much (if any) power.

the TPS isn't connected to anything on my setup. infact the carbs are so simple! just 3 things connected. a throttle cable, a choke cable and the 'fuel in' line 8)

oh that reminds me... after looking at your breather arrangement Big4244, i thought about doing something similar with mine, but my master cylinder and reservoir is in the way. Its not TOO clear on that picture but there is bugger all room between the carbs and MC. Not sure on how much room you've got in the mk4, but it may be worth checkin that it clears you servo (hopefully you already have, but just incase you haven't, it could end up another spark plug incident )

seriously thinking about putting one of these in my mk2 golf now, after experiencing Joels polo. what do you think the engine would react to twin 40's, considering i have a set, and inlet manifolds are interchangable from 1.3's (or are they?)

Edited 14 April, 200818 yr by twin40racer

inlet manifolds aren't interchangable i'm afraid Rich.

i'm scared aswell. :(

I spun my top-hat flanges out of billet,on a lathe,so was able to cut grooves for direct fitment to the carbs for running them on a 16v head (spark plugs out the way),and use O rings in lieu of a gasket. The hose i used was spirit-proof hardened-steel wire reinforced 40mm industrial vacuum hose. This all saved me alot of problems,it seems :grin: As for steel manifolds,they're claimed not inferior.

Few updates,finaly fitted the cam!

Fitted xenons (left is normal, right is xenon)

Re-painted the calipers and hubs (fitted them to the car and sharply removed them, long story, But if anyones got a set of GTI driveshafts let me know!)

Got all arty farty in a car park!

(sorry about the camera phone quality!)

mmmm nice car, and will be a serious engine when its all in, good luck!

Cheers mate!

woo hoo that cam looks like it has some big ol lift to it!!!

woo hoo that cam looks like it has some big ol lift to it!!!

Lol oh it has, i cant remember what exactly but its a 272 degree with quite alot of lift over standard, gauranteed to run lumpy on idle!