Both headlamps dipped beam have failed (with engine on). Main beam is fine. Centre spot fogs are fine. Side lights are fine.

Bulbs don't look blown at dipped filament. Fuses 7 & 8 look okay. Will check the rest today.

 

Headlamp switch?

Dim-dip resistor?

X-relief relay?

Alternator signal?

 

Suggestions welcome of where to try with a multimeter.

 

 

 

 

 

id take a guess on the switch 

 

you can disconnect the dim dip resistor to eliminate that if you feel it is a problem (i dont think so )

 

earth the meter and probe the headlight plug yellow wire looking for 12v 

Garr Multimeter probe fell apart.

 

But yep, the switch in the dashboard, or maybe the switch's connector...

 

it was a Topran replacement, perhaps 3 years old. An ancient VW switch from the scrapyard let it work again. But might have worn dimmer.

 

Also found the Lucas style connector on alternator was not fully home, but still producing current.

Looks like there should be a thin metal clasp to hold the plug in the socket, but doesn't appear to be any holes where this would fit, after careful bending a clothes peg spring to fit over it.

 

 

think you can get the switchs apart and clean the contacts etc ..been a while but im sure i did mine

 

not running big power bulbs and killing the switch are you??

Dimmer is worn. Only works at one position. But headlights okay.

 

Can't find anything wrong with the Topran switch. I get continuity at the big blade connectors X and 56 terminals when switch to headlights on position from sidelights on.

So maybe it is the multiway plug's contacts, that got cleaned by reinserting a switch

Or the cabling to that connector.

 

I'm using 55W rated P45T bulbs (HB12).

Edited 6 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

while the meter is out...see if theres a voltage difference between the battery and headlamp plug when running, can be alot on some cars

 

 

Good idea.

 

I've got an extension slave loom with its own Hella relays ready to fit, but its main power connector is a ring terminal that's not right for my old fashioned Lucas alternator plug and won't reach battery +ve.

(a bit like Rayne's but not as good) 

 

But it is useless if the connection to a headlight that controls the relays is bust somehow.

cant you swap the feed for a longer cable and run it to the battery post /starter post?

 

makes a massive difference: 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens (Rated output voltage)
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens (Rated life voltage)
14.5V : 1528 lumens

5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens (Rated output voltage)
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens (Rated life voltage)
 

Sure, once I've found the problem.. not the switch.

Was all fine, then headlight dipped beam failed to turn on again after stopping at a petrol station. Was on sidelights while at the pump.

Don't think I turned headlights off when I stopped and cut the engine.

Had to drive home on fogs/centre spots.Think dipped flickered on/off at a roundabout.

 

So x-relay? Or wiring somewhere.

 

 

 

Edited 7 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

did the heater fan go off as well , i think thats on the x relay

No, heater blower was still blowing at speed 1. Followed the wiring diagram(s) - none matches mine exactly - and found switch E4

So, maybe the indicator stalk high / low beam switch contacts...

 

Found a 321953513 for under a tenner delivered.

Edited 7 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm
tenner not tanner

my elecs expert mate says theyre not fed via the x realy and goes through the ign switch

he also says

 

check pin X on ignition and headlight switch, shoudl be ignition live

white/black on light switch live on 2nd click, chase it to flasher switch

also ask if flashers work or no

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 9 February, 20179 yr by steveo3002

Thanks, flashers (indicator left/right) work fine.

Not tried emergency (all indicators flashing).

Flash main beam gentle pulling back left stalk works.

Use main beam hard pulling back left stalk until clicks toggles to main beam,

Use dipped beam (same again) JUST DAMN WELL STARTED WORKING AGAIN! and worked for a 15 mile round trip.

 

Maybe flashing the headlights cleaned the contact in the headlight stalk...

just need to do more Autobahn outside lane driving.

I had a German boss who complained his middle finger hurt after a long trip driving an Audi 200.

Edited 9 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

Well that lasted a day. Drove to work (on sidelights in daylight) back home on headlights, parked, and as I touched the headlight switch to turn them off the headlights stopped. I think before the switch moved...

maybe I touched the left stalk with my forearm.

 

Won't come back on. oh well the new Topran stalk has arrived.

Sorry, only just seen this. Take the switch out of the dash and give it a shake. If it rattles,  it's knackered. 

Ta, no rattles!

 

+12v at the black/white wire from headlight switch to stalk assembly with ignition on.

 

New Topran (Hans Pries) left stalk is lovely, like a brand new VW part. Only issue is - though it's the left stalk you pull to switch high/dipped-  the f&*%n switch is in the right hand stalk that also does the wash/wipe. Linked by a small plastic hook.

 

Took steering wheel left stalk and finally both stalks off. Dismantled the slide mechanism in the right stalk once 4 lugs warmed up indoors to reveal the headlight contacts. Cleaned with WD40 and cotton bud, there's a wear patch, looks like it might have arced once upon a time. I bet it was just touching. Cleaned and fine emery clothed. 

 

Reassembled and working. Fitted the new stalk. Now to order a 321953503D right stalk.

Edited 11 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

But not working very well. Got plunged into semi-darkness after switching to high beam and back.

 

So a Febi 18878 right stalk turned up to replace the worn 321953503D. Fitted it - headlamps appear to be fine, and rear washer works when push right stalk away - for first time in maybe a decade.

Wiper off, gently up and release: single wipe,  single speed (up1 notch), wiper double speed (up 2 notch), wiper spray (pull towards) and 3 or 4 wipes all fine.

 

But stalk won't go down one notch from off?

It did a momentary single wipe a few times I tried, but I can't permanently engage intermittent wipe.

I've got the relay upgrade that remembers interval between wipes (and does an extra wipe when you disengage intermittent).

https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/169507-mk2-polo-wiper-relay/

https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/173919-relay-99/

 

Programmable interval wipe worked before new stalk

Edited 16 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

Think I might need a Febi 01815..?

No, a Febi 03320 according to Mr-wiper. Except 03320 is steering bellows, must be ACP parts number.

Edited 17 February, 20179 yr by dvderlm

Yeah, only 11.9 volts at nearside bulb. Offside is even further down the loom. So I will be swapping/extending the feed cable. Only concern is that it has a  single fuse, so if it blows both headlights fail.

Will route the feed cable so safe from chafing - more likely battery post than the starter post.

On ‎07‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 09:32, steveo3002 said:

cant you swap the feed for a longer cable and run it to the battery post /starter post?

 

makes a massive difference: 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens (Rated output voltage)
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens (Rated life voltage)
14.5V : 1528 lumens

 

yeah hard to know what to do for the best really

 

mine has 4 relays and 2x feeds/fuses , wired so hopefully something stays on lol , and uncut orig headlamp plugs so it can be swapped back to standard on the road side if need be 

Well I suppose the stalk switch is a single point of failure and I survived that. Keeping the original connectors is good idea. Are they capped in any way to stop rust?

The  sidelight connection needs tidying anyway.

one of my orig connectors feeds the new harness via a male h4 socket , other just hangs there , smear a dab of dialectric grease or vaseline in there if rust worries you

Running 2-relay upgrade loom with 2 more earth points and new stalks. It's transformed.

No more shadow cast by lights of the car behind!

 

The H4 sockets are ceramic, so I could in fit hotter (but not legal for road) bulbs - but dipped P45T 55W feels so much better.