Hi folks, thought I’d sign up and introduce myself. Have been using this forum since buying me bready from bangers n cash in Feb 26 (900 hammer price) and want to thank you all for your knowledge and experience which have been invaluable in bringing it back from the dead. 1990 metallic silver grey, 1043 HZ, pierburg1B3, 72k miles. Arrived with exhaust blowing and held on by bungee, would turn over but not run, plugs black as coal and at least a litre of petrol in sump, petrol tank leaking at neck, grinding gears and jelly brakes. Filthy inside out and underneath.

Ordered new tank and flushed and replaced all fluids belt filters plugs dizzy cap and leads, still couldn’t get it to fire. Due to petrol in sump assumed was fuel pump issue. Replaced that, found no fuel gettin from pump to carb. Noticed that line from pump to swirl pot had colllapsed so replaced that. Still not firing, found outlet from swirl pot to carb was connected to tank return line. Fixed that, got fuel in and fired up. Running richer than Elon Musk, whatever I did with idle and mixture appeared to have no effect. Found litre of petrol in sump again. Took carb apart and found tiny piece of fibre glass filler (which prev owner had used in tank) preventing needle from closing. Removed that, much swearing, new oil and filter, and got it running at last, adjusted carb. New fuel pump stopped working put old one back on. Put new tank in, can only just get fuel pump gun in as neck sits quite high up in flap. Bled back brakes front bleeders not shifting (work in progress) Fuel gauge not working, removed sender, took apart, cleaned up and found thin copper strip had snapped on it, bent into shape so stays together by tension and now works perfect. Found exhaust found didn’t fit properly, was about 1 ft out of alignment between central and rear mounts, so had to bend the long part by 1ft by bracing against soles of my feet like I was rowing a boat. Patched up and mounted exhaust and it passed MOT 2 week ago, emissions v low, various advisories. Luckily body fairly solid and not in bad nick, electrics ok. did some filling and painting, more painting to do. Cleaned it polished and put new plates on. Drove it round Peak District last weekend, even more fun than I remember it being when had one as a kid, especially when trying to stop. It’s been like a 4D puzzle, thoroughly enjoyed doing it up, thanks for all your help

Prev owned a 68 beetle, I’ve also currently got a 2018 Golf, 1980 T25 and 1996 T4 and clearly some sort of mental illness.

Polo piccies.pdf

Was really hoping for a pic of the exhaust adjustment technique, but a Polo in the Peak District is always nice to see.

Loosening front brake bleed nipples; hours of fun.

Bleed it at the hose/caliper junction?

Or accept you will replace the nipples, but important to remove old not rounding or shearing them off.

Brake bleed tools thread

Edited 15 May May 15 by dvderlm

Thanks for the thread! the brake nipples sadly already rounded when I got it so gonna keep tapping and gassing and using mole grips and possibly fire for a week or two, if no success may try your suggestion of bleeding at the hose

Have to say that since buying the bready I cannot recall the last time I saw one anywhere, except for one I had bout 30!years ago. Wonder if there’s a decent estimate of how many are still out there

Edited 17 May May 17 by Bluemikey
Oops posted quote in error like a daft old man

re your suggested bleeding at hose caliper junction, is it just a case of unscrewing a bit from caliper then pumping pedal to get new fluid thru and screwing in again with pedal held down and fluid still flowing? Worried this would leave air pocket in caliper

Sounds like it's been a mission, but the car's looking great now.

As for the seized bleed nipples, I spray them inside and out (as in down the bleed hole), leave them a few days, then use a 6 sided socket. If it feels at all like it's not going to go, get your hands on a mini blowtorch, works every time in my experience.

The front calipers are still available if you have a ring round, and aren't particularly expensive. Or do an upgrade to venteds.

Cheers yeti, they really were already well and truly rounded before I started trying to remove with mole grips, which are just skinning them even more. Tried 6 point sockets but no purchase on the smallest one I could get over head of the nipple. Spraying inside is an approach I’ve not tried, got me eye on some mapp gas just need to trust myself with 🔥 🤣🤣

8 hours ago, Bluemikey said:

re your suggested bleeding at hose caliper junction, is it just a case of unscrewing a bit from caliper then pumping pedal to get new fluid thru and screwing in again with pedal held down and fluid still flowing? Worried this would leave air pocket in caliper

Yes, basically.

Fresh fluid in the reservoir, an assistant to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder with feed bottle at the reservoir.

Crack the junction open a fraction so old fluid leaks out into a container. Have assistant pump pedal to force fluid out. Retighten and check fluid level after 4 or 5 pumps and top up if needed.

(Do not let the reservoir run dry.

You can always remove excess with a big syringe, turkey baster afterwards.)

Repeat until the fluid looks clear. Tighten while pumping.

It'll be quite messy; old towel to catch any spray.

There'll be a small amount of older fluid near the slave cylinder, not air, so it's not perfect, but they'll mix in use.

If brake pedal feels spongy do it again.

Wipe up, wash with detergent any spilt fluid as it is poisonous to wildlife/cats.

A vacuum bleeder at a usable brake nipple is cleaner and simpler.

Fab thanks, will give it a go as long as pipe not also seized 🤪

I’ve just seen a post on Threads the guy heated the bleed nipple up with an induction heater and it wouldn’t move so he heated it again and then while it was still red hot he rubbed a candle around the thread and it then released with minimal effort 🤷‍♂️

On 18/05/2026 at 04:24, dvderlm said:

Yes, basically.

Fresh fluid in the reservoir, an assistant to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder with feed bottle at the reservoir.

Crack the junction open a fraction so old fluid leaks out into a container. Have assistant pump pedal to force fluid out. Retighten and check fluid level after 4 or 5 pumps and top up if needed.

(Do not let the reservoir run dry.

You can always remove excess with a big syringe, turkey baster afterwards.)

Repeat until the fluid looks clear. Tighten while pumping.

It'll be quite messy; old towel to catch any spray.

There'll be a small amount of older fluid near the slave cylinder, not air, so it's not perfect, but they'll mix in use.

If brake pedal feels spongy do it again.

Wipe up, wash with detergent any spilt fluid as it is poisonous to wildlife/cats.

A vacuum bleeder at a usable brake nipple is cleaner and simpler.

Hi bled at junction of hose and caliper as suggested and brakes now much firmer, will do nicely til I get to replace caliper and hoses