hmmmm i doubt it`ll be that bad mate... like a lot of things the internet exaggerate things wildly..

my pug runs a 285 cam and yes its not exactly smooth at tickover its hardly a problem... i think a lot of the hype comes from when people try to run huge cams with a single inlet.. the gas pulses cause all kinds of crazy shit.. multiple bodies are the way ahead!!

what brand is the cam by the way?? catcam? i was led to beleive you german types like shrick stuff???

hmmmm i doubt it`ll be that bad mate... like a lot of things the internet exaggerate things wildly..

my pug runs a 285 cam and yes its not exactly smooth at tickover its hardly a problem... i think a lot of the hype comes from when people try to run huge cams with a single inlet.. the gas pulses cause all kinds of crazy shit.. multiple bodies are the way ahead!!

what brand is the cam by the way?? catcam? i was led to beleive you german types like shrick stuff???

Lol yeah its probably not as bad as id like it to be! haha, nope I've gone for a newman jobby!

anyone know what psi the standard 6n fuel pump puts out for a 1.4? i understand to run bike carbs that it has to be 3psi? my carbs turned up today, YEY, they also came with the backing plate for the slab filter. so now in on the hunt for some nice alu to make my manifold

I'm sure its 2.5 to 3 bar which equates to 36.3 to 43.5p.s.i, and your right carbs need anywhere between 1 to 3p.s.i.

cheers matey, I'm on the bay now looking for a regulator.

you`ll need to get 1 with a return too similar to this beauty:

bqasically theres a feed going in... 1 coming out.. the returns underneath and the other outlet is for a pressure feed to increase pressure for turbo applications..

i've been drag racing mine all day and its an absolute tool! 8)

ALTHOUGH i've got problems with my inlet manifold. A design flaw essentially. I've got a persistent air leak thats not doing my power any favours.

I'm going to design and make a manifold much like yours. But can you tell me about the rubber hoses you've usd to attach the carbs. Are they the factory item off the bike? and do they have a little 'bit' around the inside of them that sits on the groove on the carbs to stop them slipping? it also looks like they reduce in size, is that the case? Sorry for all the questions but the more i learn now, the sooner i can get to designing my new manifold. I'm going to head to a bike shop tomorrow to see if i can get those rubbers (provided they are a the factory item!)

There was no rolling road there today like there had been the last couple times so didn't get a pwer figure. But i went up against a calibra turbo and won. A 200hp clio and won, A clio172 and won, my friends C20XE'd mini... and won, and a saxo vts and won :D I'm really looking forward to getting the air leak sorted and having it jetted properly

What were your times on the 1/4 m8?

it was an 1/8th strip.

but i was averaging ET's of 10.4-10.5 throughout the day.

reaction times were at best 0.404 and worst 1.3 seconds

60 foot best was 2.68

not too bad considering it was running pretty poorly suffering from air leaks. its all stripped apart again now though.

cheers matey, I'm on the bay now looking for a regulator.

its your lucky day buy me, it will need a second regulator to lower the pressure more derpending on the carbs you get

You really dont need a regulator at all. As long as the fuel line goes straight back to the tank,the carbs are only fed by the back pressure. Which is virtually nothing. Sure,mine is a 3-4psi pump but an injection pump would be the same - just remove the accumulator. Tank -> lift pump -> pump -> filter -> (T piece for carbs along this section) -> tank.

i'm using one just like the middle on of the three in neb's picture. its currently set at 2 psi.

Big4244, you've got a pm from me btw :)

You really dont need a regulator at all. As long as the fuel line goes straight back to the tank,the carbs are only fed by the back pressure. Which is virtually nothing. Sure,mine is a 3-4psi pump but an injection pump would be the same - just remove the accumulator. Tank -> lift pump -> pump -> filter -> (T piece for carbs along this section) -> tank.

I'm just trying to get this straight in my head, you can run the pump to a T piece, off this T-piece you have a line back to the tank and one to the carbs. The carbs just get what they need by the back pressure?

as long as theres no resistance going back to the tank, there's no real reason that wouldn't work...!

I've done as above with the T piece but with a regulator in the return line set to 1 psi. That still works fine too.

Bumpp, wondering if anyones made any developments?

No news at the min, waiting for polo pereformance parts to get there vernier pulleys made up!

oioi, I've got a few questions to throw into the mix. fuel supply related.

i know there are various ways of doing it, pressure regulators on the original pump etc. I'm a bit wary of this way of doing it as the fuel injection pump in the tank is considerably more powerfull than needed, and I'm sure using a regulator is going to eventually nacker the pump due to the added back pressure.

so I've been looking at either fitting a facet type pump or an electric pump off a bike. but heres where i need a bit of help, what do you do with the pump in the tank. as its all built into the the guage sender unit etc if i disconnect it is it going to cause any problems lifting fuel out of the tank using the new pump in the engine bay?

or is it possible to remove the unit alltogether and fit one from a diesel, these ones have no pump on them just the guage sender unit and that will leave the new pump free to pull all it wants no restrictions.

also (yes theres more) the fuel delivery rate of the injection pump for my 1.4 is 1100cm3/min so obviously its this rate for a reason, making sure the system is never starved of fuel running lean at high revs etc. will using bike carbs, with a new stand alone pump running say 4psi be able to flow high enough at speed to keep the engine stoich??

many questions, but I'm sure I'm not the only one thinking them, posted it here as I'm sure it may be usefull hehe

Edited 5 May, 200818 yr by oldrope

ahhh, after a bit more digging facet solid state pump, part number SS501 runs at 3-4.5 psi and has a flow rate of 30 gallons/hour thats like double the fuel injection pump so i guess the running lean problem is not going to be a problem.

still want to know if anyone has run the diesel sender unit in a petrol

Any updates on this mate?

Had it on the road yet?

ahhh, after a bit more digging facet solid state pump, part number SS501 runs at 3-4.5 psi and has a flow rate of 30 gallons/hour thats like double the fuel injection pump so i guess the running lean problem is not going to be a problem.

still want to know if anyone has run the diesel sender unit in a petrol

I've recently bought the 1bar sender instead of my 3bar one, that way theres less to regulate down

Any updates on this mate?

Had it on the road yet?

Na man, need a vernier pulley , then i can put it in the car! but going by joels efforts it should be good!

A few updates, vernier should be sorted soon, 4 branch is on its way from tobyk, and I've ordered 8mm fuel line and sorted out the throttle cable and choke and done the loom, painted the coil and ignition amp

colour coded coil

colour coded ignition amp

choke setup

throttle setup

excellent work there matey!!! why are you fitting a vernier for?

excellent work there matey!!! why are you fitting a vernier for?

Cheers mate!, well the cam is cut from an earlyer polo blank, so the woodruff key is in the wrong position, i can time it up roughly but realy need a vernier pulley to get it spot on, and tune it when its on the rollers!

you could put it in, then change to the veneer in about 20 mins! Do it, you know you want to